Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article What's New  |  Site Map 

 

 
   
   
 
 


Today's
Sponsors:


RouterCAD

Royce Ayr Cutting Tools

RT Machine Co.

Safety Speed Cut

Sand-Rite Manufacturing

Sandman Products

Saw Trax Mfg.

Sawmill and Woodlot Magazine

Schmalz, Inc.

Schultz Forming Products

SCM Group USA, Inc.

SCM Group

SCM

SDN Contracting

Seagrave Coatings Corporation

Sears Trostel Lumber Co.

Shade Dri

Shomaker Lumber Company

ShopBot

SII Dry Kilns

Silvaris

Simantech

SIS Machinery

SK-USA

SketchList

SlipCon USA, Inc.

SnapDragon Associates, LLC

SNX Technologies

South State Machinery

South Texas Moulding

Southeast Tool, Inc.

Specialtytools.com

SprayGunWorld.com

NPO BARS

Nydree Flooring

Nyle Dry Kiln Systems

O'Shea Lumber Company

Old Mississippi Brick and Heart Pine Company

OMGA, Inc.

Omnitech Systems

Onsrud Cutter

Opti-Sand

Original Saw Company

Osolnik Machinery & Supplies

Patton Cabinet Doors

Paul Saws and Systems

People Logic Software Corp.

Pinske Edge

Pioneer Lumber Company

Planit Solutions Inc.

plastiMACH

Plogic Solutions Ltd.

Pond Cove Paint

Porter-Cable

Precision Drive Systems

Precision Saw Sharpeners

Premium Specialty Hardwoods

Pricecutter.com

Prime Estimating and Software Services, LLC

Pro.Woodworker.com

Pro100

Professional Hardware & Supply Co.

Quality VAKuum Products, Inc.

Quick Machinery Company

Quickscrews International Corporation

QuickScribe

QuickWood

QuikDrawers

Quis Machinery

R&R Drummond, Inc.

R.A.W.

R.D. Billhofer Company

Rangate

Rawles-Aden Lumber Corp.

RazorGage

Restoration Specialists

Rex Lumber Company

Riethmiller Lumber

Ritter Manufacturing Inc.

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

Roger Shaw and Associates

Rose Machinery

Routech



WOODWEB DISCLAIMS any and all RESPONSIBILITY and LIABILITY for the accuracy and application of the information below. Readers agree to evaluate the significance and limitations of the information provided, and accept full responsibility for the application of this information. Read More ...

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?



Laying Up a Patterned Veneer       Detailed advice on laying up a veneered panel with a perimeter strip made of one veneer, and a center area made of another. June 28, 2006

Question
I have a panel to lay up consisting of a 2" veneer on the front around the perimeter, mitered 45 at the corners, then another contrasting veneer in the center. My question is, how does this lay up proceed? If the veneer is pieced together ahead of time and taped, is it made the exact size and perfectly square so the mitered corners of the veneer match the corners of the panel?

Forum Responses
(Veneer Forum)
From contributor A:
If possible, make the border - sometimes called "cross banding" - wider than the two inches you want to net. Then you have two choices.
1: Glue your lay up to an oversized substrate and when it comes out of the press, trim it to get your desired border size using a sliding table or sled.
2: If your border is oversized enough you could make the substrate the same size as your veneer lay up and then if there was some slippage you could still trim it after pressing and get your desired border width.

Some added info you might find interesting - for years I would veneer panels with mitered crossbanding and then after pressing I would inlay a string inlay at the intersection of the border and center piece by routing a groove and mitering and gluing in the string inlay. Then I stumbled on the method of including the string inlay in the taped together lay up. In other words, I made the center piece, mitered string inlay around it and taped it together, and then mitered the crossbanding around the string inlay and taped it to the whole. This saved a lot of tedious work.

Anyway, to get back to your topic, I personally would not risk trying to make the lay up net size before pressing because I don’t like to use brads in veneer faces to keep them from slipping and it would probably slip without brads.



From contributor B:
If you are vacuum pressing you can use Titebond cold press, veneer the entire panel in the center veneer, pull it from the press after about one hour (test beforehand to gauge glue setup) score the perimeter with a cutting gauge or veneer saw/straightedge and pull up the excess glue and veneer with a chisel. Then apply your precut crossbanding and return to the press for two to three hours. This is a modification of the process used in traditional hammer veneering and has worked well for me on drawer fronts and small table tops, never tried it on anything very large but if you have everything ready to go it should work just as well. They key with timing is to let the glue tack up enough that you are not going to pull the center veneer but you don't want it to be too difficult to scrape away the unwanted veneer and glue at the edges.


From contributor A:
I don’t understand the advantage of that method. Why not cut a center veneer to size? Then, miter crossbanding to fit around it. Use veneer tape to fasten the crossbanding to the center veneer, and then just press it. All that scoring, veneer sawing and chiseling glue just seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me.
Please explain.


From contributor B:
The main advantage is that you are dealing at that point with the true size of the center veneer not with the theoretical size prior to pressing, it is quite possible that the center veneer will stretch just a little when it is pressed and cause a gap. Also, the edges are typically the most trouble-prone areas due to squeeze out slightly raising the veneer from the surface. This eliminates that as a concern with the center veneer piece (the edges are cut away). Finally, what happens if your veneer loses registration even slightly during pressing if it rotated even slightly none of the miters would line up. This method requires more work but guarantees a perfect fit.

The alternative is to build everything ahead of time using veneer tape and pins and laying up the entire veneer at one time. This works well and is slightly more efficient but as you inferred in your post the brad holes are a pain even as tiny as they are.


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Veneer

  • KnowledgeBase: Veneer: Techniques




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2008 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    RR4 Box 265A
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB