Leg Leveler Tips and Tricks

      Pros compare methods for leveling cabinets with leg-leveler feet. August 29, 2006

For those of you who use leg levelers, do you drill a hole through the cabinet bottoms and adjust them from above, or do most people just adjust them from the bottom? I'm trying to figure out what would work best if I have boxes milled on a CNC. I have not seen any decent information from the manufacturers.

Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor M:
I screw from the bottom. Once the cabinet is installed, it is much cleaner. It is not that big of a deal. Here's a bit of advice that helped me. Use a ledger strip on the back of the wall. Then put the back of the cabinet on and adjust the levelers in the front. Cuts the parts needed in half.

From contributor T:
We also screw them on the bottom, because the Grass Metro Undermounts interfered with the bolt holes. No CNC to spot the screw holes, so a Vix bit jig while the bottom is flat on the bench. Finished sides recessed in 2". Don't forget to install this leg when using the ledger, which we set up with a pocket laser line. Island toes still get made as box toes due to 1000# of granite on top.

From contributor J:
I wouldn't advise recessing finished end legs. I use a rear wall ledger but keep front legs (doweled) under all vertical members to help with load.

From contributor T:
Hundreds of jobs, dowelled and pocket screwed (no case clamp yet), no problems. If flush, you have to scribe in the end perfect. I use Atlantic Hardware (NJ) plastic legs with side supports, turned to the back on finished ends. These can also be cut down. Just installed a 12x16x14 U-shaped kitchen that was 3 1/2" on 1 side, 5 3/4" - legs on blocks -on the other. Also send the toes out 24" x 96" plywood EB2S F1S to be ripped on site due to these wacko floors, thanks to the laser level on the job preview.

From contributor D:
Most all of we True32 guys drill a socket hole in cab bottoms and adjust each leveler from the bottom. Only times I have ever used levelers where I drilled holes all the way through the cab was on service calls for a major builder where I have to tear out water damaged cabs without disturbing granite and fit in rebuilt cabs and raise up to countertops. I found adjusting levelers from inside cab a bit helpful some of the time, but still prefer adjusting from bottoms.

It seems a bit strange to me the guys who nail ledgers on wall for back side of cabs, but some guys do it. For me it would be out of system, would require another operation at installation and I wouldn't have leveler buttons on bottom of cab to slide cabs across floor after assembly.

I would also have to change assembly to build islands or peninsulas - it's just my preference to keep everything the same.

From contributor M:
The ledger actually speeds things up for me because I have a reference. I shoot a level line and screw the ledger to the studs. I don't have to worry about where the high point is. I just have to make sure the cabinets are level front to back. And it also gives a nice reference point for plumbing cutouts. I use Hafele's 2 piece system, so there is a base, but yes, it is a little awkward to move and stack these at times. I don't think any system has all the solutions. How do you secure a peninsula or island with levelers?

From contributor D:
I simply put a dab of epoxy and lower the leg down into it - I'm always trying to think of time saving steps. Some guys screw, but here in Vegas all ground level floors are concrete.

From contributor H:
We drill 4 20mm holes in the bottom of the deck with a dedicated drill press that does not go through the deck. We use knock-in plates to receive the leg and install them before assembly.

From contributor J:
Thanks for all the great responses! I myself have just been using the Hafele leg levelers that require 4 screws each. I am thinking that one of the levelers that pushes into a 15 or 20mm hole is probably a better solution, especially if I can set up the Mini-press or something to drill the holes.

From contributor H:
You can dedicate a drill press with a custom table and back fence for this job and/or Rockler sells a plastic jig and 20 mm long shaft bits that is perfect for the job. The jig is a depth adjusting jig with an added stop that you screw onto the bit shaft. It can be used in a hand drill as well when someone forgets to bore the hole before assembly. I use the same jig for my 20mm drawer adjusters.

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