|
|
|
| Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article | Login | Become a Member | What's New | Site Map |
|
WOODWEB DISCLAIMS any and all RESPONSIBILITY and LIABILITY for the accuracy and application of the information below. Readers agree to evaluate the significance and limitations of the information provided, and accept full responsibility for the application of this information. Read More ... |
|
|
Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? "Light" and "dark" veneer bands Question
Forum Responses
From the original questioner: I understand the reason for the effect but don't know how to suppress it. If I start on the raw ply using a sanding sealer, would this work? I prefer to use a poly or varnish for a natural amber-tinted color. From contributor D: Option one: Buy select wood without these grain patterns. Option two: Tone it so dark you can't see the grain. Option three: Paint it. Option four: Spray on a dye stain only, to minimize the effect. Option five: Learn to love it and make it part of the design. From the original questioner: Those were the examples I was looking for. The ply is A1, very nice and to my liking but not my wife. I have a tiger maple cab with 10 inch sections which looks simply marvelous but the smaller sections on the maple multiply the effect somewhat. I don't have spray so I probably would go with a diluted coat of polymerized tung sealer and then stain, although I prefer aniline dyes and I'd like to warm up the blond maple. Can you suggest alternative toners (which can be applied by brush, rag, etc.) or a specific aniline which would give me that warmer tone look? From contributor D: To warm up the maple, I suggest using an amber shellac. Brushable toners can be used. Minwax makes a poly they call Polyshades in various colors. If you can't find one to your liking, you can try making your own with varnish or poly by adding powdered pigments or Japan colors. Dyes may also be used but they must be oil compatible. I suggest a barrier coat of thinned down shellac between your stain and poly or varnish, as the solvents can rewet the stain, making a blurry mess when you brush. Time also does wonders for warming up maple. What you are describing is called "barber-pole" in the plywood industry. The best remedy is to seal the surface (no wipe-spray) and then spray on a pigmented or dye toner. Pigmented usually works best. Whatever you do, do not wipe the sealer. The only way that this can be eliminated is to purchase veneer that was made on a lumber slicer. An alternative solution would be to glue size the veneer prior to layup. Glue size seals the veneer from the back side to minimize absorption rate differences. This improves the overall tone balance of finishes and top coats.
The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment). Comment from contributor A:
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
|
