Making Sanding Belts

      You can make your own sanding belts with sandpaper and glue, but it's not really worth it. August 23, 2006

Has anyone found an adhesive or a method for making your own sanding belts?

Forum Responses
(Adhesive Forum)
From contributor R:
I buy from It's not efficient or wise to make your own belts when prices are this reasonable. They have the best price and least minimum on custom belts.

From contributor C:
First, you'll need to plant several acres of high quality cotton. While that is growing, you'll probably want to set up a factory to produce either Rayon or Dacron or some other fibrous reinforcement for the cotton weave. The looms should be pretty basic, depending on whether you are making sheets, 4x24 or wide belts.

The abrasive you choose will affect your decision as to whether you'll be mining carborundum or garnet, or setting up to produce synthetic abrasives. After mining, processing and grading are straightforward. You'll have to choose whether you are going with the English/American grading or the European. You may even opt to set up your own proprietary grade scale. The glues will be easy to formulate, considering the amount of research and production you have already accomplished up to that point. Don't get discouraged, and good luck!

From contributor D:
This was common practice in the UK at one time. The ends were joined by cutting them at 45 degrees and gluing linen cloth (old blueprints were ideal) across the joint at the back. Two strips were used - a narrow piece about two inches wide and another 4 inches wide, the wider piece being applied last. PVA glue is okay, as it is fairly flexible. A piece of polythene with weights on top will give a good joint, when left to dry. A slight knock will be heard as the joint passes the sanding pad, but this will not affect the finish. It's easier to buy belts.

From contributor P:
I have glued belts together for years for a homemade stoke sander I built. I just cut the joint about 30 degrees on each end then use a belt sander to taper the edges and remove a half inch or so of grit on both ends to avoid a hump at the joint. I glue them together with cynoacrylate, cover the joint on both sides with a sandwich bag, and clamp them with a couple of small blocks and two heavy duty pinch clamps. The glue won't stick very good to a Ziploc bag or baggie.

The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment).

Comment from contributor S:
Here is the process I use.

1. Cut the ends of the sandpaper under 30 degrees.

2. Try to remove the grain with a piece of glass and with a woodworking chisel and leave only paper in both sides.

3. Connect the ends with a Polyurerthan glue. Ponal PU construct works for me and itís a very strong and elastic glue.

4. Use a baking paper and insert the glued part inside.

5. Iron the glued part for one minute.

Then you should be ready to go!

Comment from contributor M:
I agree that it is less expensive cost and otherwise to just buy one's sanding belts but the problem is that every once in a while one runs out of a belt and then cannot find a replacement from a local hardware or home store like the 14" belt for the hand-held Porter-Cable belt sander. I carefully remove the tape from the old one and glue it back with a good quick-setting glue and under pressure from a hand screw or spring clamp.

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?

Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Adhesives, Gluing and Laminating

  • KnowledgeBase: Woodworking Miscellaneous

    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.

    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2019 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    335 Bedell Road
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB

  • WOODWEB - the leading resource for professional woodworkers

      Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article