Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article What's New  |  Site Map 

 

 
   
   
 
 


Today's
Sponsors:


WMMA

Wood and Wood Products

Wood Doctor's Rx, LLC

Wood Tech Enterprises, Inc.

Wood Technology Inc

Wood-Mizer

Wood-Ply Lumber Corp.

WoodCabinetDoors.Com

Woodcraft Supply Corp.

WoodcraftPlans.com

WoodenBoat

WoodFinder

WoodJobs.com Search Consultants

Woodland Dimension Products

WoodLINKS

Woodmaster

WoodPlanet Inc.

WOODWEB

Woodworker's Supply/woodworker.com

Woodworker's Directory

Wright Timber

SK-USA

SketchList

SlipCon USA, Inc.

SoCalMachinery.com

South State Machinery

South Texas Moulding

Southeast Tool, Inc.

Specialtytools.com

SprayGunWorld.com

Stairguy Stairbuilding Videos

Stefani

Steve H. Wall Lumber Co.

Stiles Machinery

Stiles Shop Solutions

Stor-N-Fold Systems

Super Source Tooling Inc.

Supergrit Abrasives

Surface and Panel Magazine

Target Coatings

Techno CNC Routers

Template Services

Teragren

The Cayce Company

The Veneer Store

Thermwood Corporation

TigerStop

TigerwoodDecking.com

TimberKing

Timesavers Inc.

TMS Machinery Sales

Tongass Forest Enterprises

Tooling on the Web

Toolstoday.com

Touch Up Solutions LLC

Tractivity

TradeSoft

Trakware Systems Inc.

TRB Flooring Company

Tropical American Tree Farm

Tropical Hardwoods

UC Coatings Corp.

Unique Machine & Tool

University of Wisconsin

UWMO Auctions

VacDry Kilns

Vacuum Pressing Systems, Inc.

Vacuumpods.com

Vecoplan LLC

Vector Art 3D

Vectric Ltd.

Veneer Systems Inc.

Veneer Technologies Inc.

Vintage Perkins

VortexTool Co. Inc.

VyTek

W. Moore Profiles, Ltd.

W.L. Fuller

Wadkin North America

Wagner Electronic Products

WalzCraft Industries

Webb Abrasives

WEIMA America, Inc.

Weinig Group - USA

Western Dovetail

Williams and Hussey

Wisconsin Knife Works

WMIA



WOODWEB DISCLAIMS any and all RESPONSIBILITY and LIABILITY for the accuracy and application of the information below. Readers agree to evaluate the significance and limitations of the information provided, and accept full responsibility for the application of this information. Read More ...

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?



Making Tight Finger Joints       Glue is holding finger joints open, reports a craftsman. Pros offer suggestions for clamping long boards tightly end to end. November 9, 2005

Question
I need to build two 1 x 10 17' stair skirt boards out of red alder. All I could get was 6-8' material. My plan was to buy a finger joint cutter for the shaper and a Titebond HiPurf polyurethane glue that sets in 60-75 seconds. I plan to glue the joints together and move on to the next joint quickly. The joints dry fit just fine, but when I put glue on I can't get them back together. The glue doesn't seem to be letting the joint close before the glue sets. In all the joints I have tried the best I could do was 1/32" gap on the face. I need to get these joints tight. I reduced the amount of glue I used and that helped a bit but I haven't been successful yet. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Forum Responses
(Architectural Woodworking Forum)
From contributor A:
It seems like you need to put pressure on the joint halves. Since it would take some really long pipe clamps, you could try pinch dogs instead. Pinch dogs are U-shaped steel tools that have bevels ground on their legs and will force two pieces together when they are driven into the parts with a hammer. Pinch dogs leave some serious damage on the surface that they are driven into so they are usually only used on the side of the work that won’t be seen. Other than that, perhaps the adhesive you are trying to use has too much viscosity.



From contributor B:
It is interesting that this question came up. This morning I was looking at the sales flier that came with my HiPUR kit that I purchased last year. I also had some joints that did not close up properly. I was using the 75 second glue. The numbers on the Titebond website are a little different from the brochure on the subject, however they point out the difference in viscosity of the three HiPUR products (WW30, WW60, and WW75). It seems that the WW30 is the thinnest of the three. WW75 is in the middle, and WW60 is the thickest. I plan on trying the 30 second glue to see if that solves my problem (miter joints on crown moulding). With only 30 seconds, I will have to work fast. However, if everything is set up correctly this should not be a problem for my application.


From the original questioner:
I didn't think of pinch dogs. Those are easy to get.


From contributor D:
Try this experiment. Set your dry fit on the two joints. Instead of applying glue to the joints, dip the joint ends in water for about 5 seconds. Now check the fit again. It will be pretty tight. The water in the adhesive is only a vehicle to get the solids from the applicator (brush, dipping, automatic spreader) to the joint. When the water is squeezed out of the solids, it transfers into the wood fiber. A complete cure is when that water dissipates from the wood. You also need to get penetration into the wood fiber, therefore too little adhesive is going to cause a failure down the line. You need to apply enough adhesive to the joint, squeeze out some, then let cure for an hour or two (depending on the ambient temperature) before machining or using. If the dry fit, amount of adhesive, amount of pressure, and squeeze time are adequate, you'll solve your problems here. To get a good glue line, the solids must be sufficient enough to accomplish a consistent glue film in the joint after squeezing.


From contributor E:
Try the trick used to clamp sections of counter top together - hot glue some small blocks of wood to the faces of your workpiece then pull the joint together by putting clamps across the blocks. Then chisel off the hot glue.
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Adhesives, Gluing and Laminating

  • KnowledgeBase: Adhesives, Gluing and Laminating: Glues and Bonding Agents

  • KnowledgeBase: Adhesives, Gluing and Laminating: Gluing and Clamping Equipment




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2008 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    RR4 Box 265A
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB