Pads for Moulder Pressure Shoes

      Felt pads can prevent shine marks on your mouldings. Details here. July 3, 2008

Question
We use a Weinig P1000 to machine a number of different moulding profiles and door rails for cabinet doors and trim carpentry. A problem has been the shoe leaving burnish lines on the moulding. We've tried steel, wood, and UHMF plastic shoes, all with varying degrees of success. We recently have begun experimenting with applying 1/2" felt to our wood shoes. Has anyone else tried this? Does the felt compress to individual profiles, and if so does it regain its shape after switching to a different profile?

Forum Responses
(Solid Wood Machining Forum)
From contributor R:
Felt is the answer as its been used for many years on moulders. I would use 1/8 felt and stick it to the pressure shoe with adhesive. Most important is the design of the mouldings when it was first thought up. Sometimes there is no way around holding down on a bead but a lot of time poor design leads to these issues of burnish marks.



From the original questioner:
Is there a particular type of adhesive that you would recommend? Also, since the felt pad is so thin, are you using a reverse profiled shoe?


From contributor R:
Contact cement works, spray adhesive works as well as double stick tape. I use a variety of pressure shoes, the metal one it comes with, and custom wooden ones. Reverse profiles on the angled profiles. Most of the time I just pick two spots on the moulding that are flat and have a two step pressure shoe hold down on the flats if possible. Feel free to contact me if you need more information.


From contributor C:
What about blue nylon? The auto-template or template router system, or whatever it’s called, makes reverse profile shoes from that. I've been investigating the material, as I already have a CNC to cut it, and the nylon appears to have some sort of oil impregnated in it. I don't see why it couldn't be used in place of UHMW square or profiled, as I believe its slicker and might help the burnishing.

I use felt now, and I'm not really all that thrilled with it. 5/16's epoxy’d to drilled and tapped aluminum backer to attach to the steel finger(s) of the pressure. The felt tends to tear up and "peel" after a few thousand feet, and I think it’s kind of a PITA to profile by hand. Of course, I think anything by hand is a PITA anymore!

I've also heard of something called the "Infinity Fence" that I guess is a row of fingers that automatically move to match the profile. I've never seen a picture or info, or found a website for it, just a quoted $3000+/- price tag that scared me away.



From contributor R:
There are many things that would work to eliminate shine marks. Felt has been used for years, it is easy to obtain, doesn't need any special machining, cost is very inexpensive. I guess I am just a little old fashion when it comes to types of hold downs and what to put on them. Being a cabinetmaker by trade I have always custom made my pressure shoes out of wood and laminate and felt when needed. They are effective, inexpensive, and easy to make in about an hour or less.

Your idea is certainly being used by many in the industry and it works well. Like I said I guess I am still a little old fashion and like to use my skills to make my own pressure shoes. Some of my custom pressure shoes are still being used today, six years since I have run production on moulders. Your idea is a very good one.



From contributor J:
I have had problems with shine marks on blue nylon. I have never had a problem with shine using felt. One thing I will say is that felt can lead to some chatter because it is not as solid of a hold down element. Also, if you do not keep your pieces butt to butt as they are going through the machine you could rip the felt right off the shoe and be looking at a time consuming repair.



Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining

  • KnowledgeBase: Solid Wood Machining: Setup and Maintenance


    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2018 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    335 Bedell Road
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB











  • WOODWEB - the leading resource for professional woodworkers


      Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article