Peel and Stick Edgebanding
From contributor C:
The Fastcap tape doesn't stick well enough to suit me. When we use it for susan boxes and such I have the guys brush contact cement on the particle board edge. This seems to stop the creeping and makes it stick twice as well. Otherwise it seems like a guaranteed call back in a short while.
I have used the Fastcap edgebanding and then switched to Edgemate peel and stick with 3M adhesive. The Edgemate is a superior product and comes in many species. I use a veneer scraper to put it on rather than a roller. I can put a lot more pressure on the banding which in turn makes it stick better. So far I have not had any call backs on it.
From contributor N:
To contributor T: Just wondering how often if at all you have used the Edgemate on doors and drawer fronts? Would you use it on light use commercial cabinets?
I have never used it on doors or drawer fronts, only on cabinet parts that are hidden behind the doors and drawers. I always use solid or frame and panel doors and drawers. I don't trust it enough for that. A side note here, I recently went back to a job where if first tried the Fastcap edging and there had been a broken tub valve on the second story that flooded the kitchen below. They dried it for two weeks with dehumidifiers and fans. All of the Fastcap had begun to delaminate whether it had gotten wet or not. It seems the extreme drying was the culprit. I am curious whether this would have happened if the parts had been edged with a glue pot edgebander or not?
From contributor N:
All experiential knowledge is valuable, and it will be useful to me in this situation. I have to reconsider the peel and stick here only because it is doors and fronts.
From Contributor R:
I used it once on cabinet parts and had a devil of a time getting the extra adhesive off after applying. I went back after a few months because there was still adhesive squeeze-out that had collected dirt from handling that I had to clean off.
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