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Pocket Hole Joinery for Face Frames![]() ![]() Question
Forum Responses
From contributor D: If you are using the Kreg machine for pocket holes they should have giving you a jig to set the stop collar on the bit. 1 1/2" screws are used for stock that is 1" thick or more being applied to stock that is 1" thick or more. 1 1/4" screws are for 3/4" stock to 3/4" stock. And 1" screws are for 1/2" stock to 3/4" or 1/2" stock. If your face frames are 3/4" thick and your boxes are 3/4" thick you can use a 1 1/4" screw. But if you are dadoing a 1/4" groove in the back sides of your face frames and then applying them to the boxes you need to use 1" screws or you will poke through. From contributor B: For 3/4 to 3/4 applications the stop collar on the bit needs to be 3 1/2 inches back from end of the 3/8 bit. Check and make sure you've got whichever jig you're using set up right too. From contributor M: The choice of screw is important in this case. I have noticed the larger the head, the longer the screw you can use. I also consider the material. If I am using plywood, I would consider going with the 1", but in hardwood, use the 1 1/4 screw. From contributor D: You don't have to do anything with the holes on the face frame, they are hidden. Unless you stick your head in the cabinet and turn around you will never see them. As for the holes on the carcass of the cabinet they won't be seen either because they will be sandwiched in between the cabinets when they are put together. If its an end cabinet just apply your finished panel over it and your done. The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment). Comment from contributor N:
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