Re-Coating a Scratched Conversion-Varnish Table Top
Is there a way to buff/polish out the scratches? It has a dull sheen to it. If I sand it with 320 grit paper, would it be safe to put on another coat of CV? Any suggestions on how to get rid of the scratches would be appreciated.
Also, I did another smaller top and this one was wrapped for two weeks before putting it into use and this one is scratch-less, so I know that the finish at least is capable of not being scratch prone.
From contributor O:
Beware of thinning your topcoat too much as you may not get the luster you thought you would get. I've had reps tell me that Krystal can be thinned almost indefinitely if you wanted to use it as a washcoat, but to maintain your intended luster you should do samples if you are going to thin it more than 30%.
In addition to this you should still shoot a full wet coat so be careful if you're thinning with a fast solvent. We just resolved a similar problem by shooting Krystal satin thinned 30% with the MLC reducer sprayed at 4-5 mils wet. Don't expect the wet Krystal to burn up your sanding scratches up either - remember you're going over Krystal. Keep to 320 with the grain and only the trained eye will see the scratches in the right light.
From contributor T:
It all depends on how much you spray per coat and how much you sand between coats. The only way to find out is to measure it digitally, but I'm sure you're safe. Just sand back with 400 or higher grit you prefer and re-spray it lightly.
From contributor S:
Its not an issue really. The table tops are flat, so a nice six inch random orbit sander with P400 on it will level everything out and remove a couple of mills of build, and frankly the final product will look much better than when you first delivered it.
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