Re-Gluing Veneer Bubbles
From contributor M:
If you use a white glue or say Tightbond a hot iron will allow the veneer to re- adhere. Immediately after applying heat place weights on the area and allow to cool .
From contributor T:
I have never been able to get a syringe to work with glue. Glue is too thick, won't draw up. I cut the blister with a razor (along the grain lines), lift the edge with a toothpick (the round pointed ones like for pickles), and push in the glue with whatever. Wipe off the excess right away, place a piece of poly over it and clamp tightly between thick flat blocks or re-press somehow. Leave overnight. I use PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive. It won't set up too fast and won't stick to the poly (as in vapor barrier). PL Premium comes in a caulking gun cartridge and can be injected into a lot of tricky spots. It also makes an excellent veneer adhesive with a vacuum press. Use an old dovetail saw blade to spread it out.
From contributor D:
One other little trick you can use is to take an air nozzle that you can turn down to a lighter pressure and gently blow the glue into the void. I have used this method with success. I agree that the syringe method is very hard to do as the glue is too thick to work well unless you water it down. As mentioned earlier if you make a small slice in the veneer with the grain and then slip some glue in with a flat piece of metal you can then use the air nozzle as mentioned above to coerce the glue all the way in to the void.
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