Today's
Sponsors:


BC Wood Specialties Group

BeamsRUS

Beaver Tools

Beavertooth Oak

Benz Incorporated

Best Cabinets

BetterVacuumcups.com

Biesse America

Biewer Lumber

Binks

Black Bros. Co.

Blackhawk Machinery

Briquetting Solutions by Sunomi LLC

Brown Wood Products Co.

Business Management Solutions

Byrd Tool

C.R. Onsrud

Cab Parts

Cabinet Door Service Co.

Cabinet Pro

CabinetCRUNCHER Cutlist & 3D Cabinet Design Software

Cabinetmakers Association

CADCABINETS.COM

CADCode

Cag Lumber

Cantek America

Carolina Woodworking Consultants

Carter Products

Carving Technologies

Castle

Catskill Timber Industries

Charles G.G. Schmidt Co.

Chicago Dowel Company, Inc.

Clear Lake Lumber

CNC Parts Dept.

1-800-Cabinets.com

2Sand.com

3M Corporation

A O M Spray Equipment

Abrasive Resource

Accu-Router, Inc.

AceCo Precision Wood Tooling

Activa

Air Handling Systems

Alan McIlvain Company

Algoma Lumber Co.

All Star Adhesives

Alliance Millsoft

Allied Machinery Inc.

AllRout

Amana Tool

Ameitech South

American Fabric Filter Co.

American Institute of Building Design

American National Woodworking Knife

American Rotary Converters

ANEST IWATA USA, Inc.

Antique Beams and Boards

Antique Building Materials

Anver Corporation

Apollo Sprayers Inc.

Arbor Processing Inc.

Architectural Elements

ArtCam

ATEMAG

Auton Motorized Systems

AWFS

B.H. Davis Company

Bailey's Inc.

Baker Products

Banks Hardwoods

Barn Detail

Barn Door Lumber




Red Oak or White Oak?       More info on a question that comes up often. October 12, 2007

Question
Is this red or white oak?


Click here for higher quality, full size image

Forum Responses
(Furniture Making Forum)
From contributor G:
Red



From contributor J:
Red


From contributor R:
Red


From contributor W:
The way to tell for sure is to look at the large pores in the end grain. If they are open (you might have to use a razor blade and make a clean slice across the end grain surface), it is a red oak. If they are totally plugged up with a white crystalline substance (tyloses), then it is white oak.


From contributor M:
I read an article one time where you stick one end in a bowl of water. If you can blow bubbles, it is red oak, and if you can't, it is white. Since it doesn't appear from the picture that you can get your mouth wrapped around this piece, my vote is for red. :)


From Professor Gene Wengert, Sawing and Drying Forum technical advisor:
The comments about white oak being plugged are not correct. There are 5 species of white oak that are open. Most notable is chestnut oak, a porous white oak. So, not all white oaks are plugged.

[In fact, I saw an ad for Jack Daniels a few years ago that had a chestnut oak on the picture and the text talked about their whiskey barrels (which cannot use chestnut oak because the barrels would leak). I wrote them a note pointing out that they had the wrong tree in the picture and they were kind enough to send me a... nice letter. Darn.]

The way to separate red oak and white oak, which is also discussed in the archives here, is to look at the rays (the short dark lines running vertically in the picture). If the rays are under 3/4", it is red oak. If the rays are often 1-1/2" long, then white. The rays in this picture look short, so it is red.

There is also a stain (sodium nitrite) which is 100% and is discussed in the archives.



From Professor Gene Wengert, Sawing and Drying Forum technical advisor:
White on top.


Click here for higher quality, full size image



From contributor J:
Thanks, Gene. Yet when looking at the picture, the "white" looks darker than the "red."


From Professor Gene Wengert, Sawing and Drying Forum technical advisor:
The two pieces I have included are not touched up, but are just as they come. So, color is a poor indicator, but the rays are certainly wider and longer in the white oak. In the original picture, I also see long and wide rays in the left side piece, so I will conclude that it is white oak, even though the color (which is not a good indicator) is somewhat reddish.


The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment).

Comment from contributor S:
When looking at the end grain of oak, I can usually tell the difference by the pores. In red oak they will be more open and in a uniform band. In white oak they will not look as open as the red, and will be more sporadic and inconsistently oriented. Sometimes it is a bit hard to tell unless you have a piece of each next to each other.



Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Lumber and Plywood

  • KnowledgeBase: Lumber & Plywood: Wood Identification




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2010 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    RR4 Box 265A
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB













  •   Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article