Refinishing Waxed Table-Tops with Polyurethane
From contributor T:
Polyurethane doesn't stick to much of anything, especially not wax. You'll need to get it off with a good wash of MS or naphtha with a scotch brite pad. It wouldn't hurt to apply a coat of dewaxed shellac as a barrier. Scuff sand before you apply finish and between coats to get a good mechanical bond.
From contributor M:
Contributor T is right on track with the naphtha scrub - it's less oily than mineral spirits and dries faster. Applying dewaxed shellac (Seal Coat) is not just a good idea, it is mandatory in your situation - two light coats with about an hour between, then a couple more hours to let that set up and you're ready for either regular poly or even some wb poly. I'd use Target's Super Clear Poly - the stuff's awesome! (If you go with wb topcoats, you'd be safer to let the shellac dry overnight just to be sure.)
From contributor R:
I use wb's only, but I'd be reluctant to use them where ammonia is used for cleaning.
From contributor K:
If you use SealCoat (which you should), let dry overnight, especially if you use Target's products. There have been some reports on Target's site of problems if not letting it dry thoroughly.
From contributor S:
Get some Prepsol from an auto paint store. Done deal. 35+ years in this great industry.
Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?