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Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Sanding Highly Figured Veneer 
Question
Forum Responses
If you are laying up your own veneers, you should be able to start sanding at 120, working your way up to 220 in the following steps. 120, 150 180, 220. I pencil mark the material and simply go over the veneer twice with each grit (not aggressively) and usually end up with a very nice panel and no burn through. To achieve the really nice figure, you may want to sand one more step and go to 320. Also, laying down three or four coats of sealer and sanding these down to the veneer before the last coat of sealer and then topcoating will help a lot.
From the original questioner: Thanks, I will try going to 320 next time. From contributor F: Try Scotchbrite and/or denatured alcohol for cleanup before finishing. You won't sand through, you won't leave micro cuts and scratches to dull the wood surface. You will retain a flat surface and you will remove all oils and fingerprints. If you routinely sand melamine successfully, if you routinely sand HPL successfully, you can routinely sand veneer successfully. Think about that for a minute.
From contributor K: I would like to hear more about sanding melamine and HPL - those are items that I try to avoid sanding. Do you sand them to level joints, to achieve a different sheen level than the factory supplies, to eliminate scratches, or what? I can sand veneer, but am I missing something important by not sanding plastics? From contributor F: My remarks about sanding melamine were facetious. I meant to emphasize the care necessary when prepping veneer for finishing, especially some of the thinner high quality faces that are available, and more importantly, to offer an alternate method. I don't and I don't know anyone who does sand melamine faces. Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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