Today's
Sponsors:


Shomaker Lumber Company

ShopBot

SII Dry Kilns

Silvaris

Simantech

Single Source Cabinet Supplies

SIS Machinery

SK-USA

SketchList

SlipCon USA, Inc.

SnapDragon Associates, LLC

SNX Technologies

South State Machinery

Southeast Tool, Inc.

Sovereign Machine, Inc.

North Pacific Lumber

Northstate Hardwoods

Northtech Machinery

NPO BARS

O'Shea Lumber Company

Old Mississippi Brick and Heart Pine Company

Omnitech Systems

Onsrud Cutter

Open the Door Products

Opti-Sand

Optisol for Project Scheduling

Original Saw Company

Osborne Wood Products

Patton Cabinet Doors

Peninsula Hardwoods

Penn Sylvan International

People Logic Software Corp.

Pinske Edge

Pioneer Lumber Company

Pioneer Millworks

Planit Solutions Inc.

Plogic Solutions Ltd.

Pond Cove Paint

Porter-Cable

Precision Drive Systems

Premium Specialty Hardwoods

Prime Estimating and Software Services, LLC

Primo Woodworking Machinery

Pro.Woodworker.com

Pro100

Professional Hardware & Supply Co.

Professional Machinery Group

PYTHA

Quality VAKuum Products, Inc.

Quick Machinery Company

Quickscrews International Corporation

QuickScribe

QuikDrawers

R&R Drummond, Inc.

R.A.W.

R.D. Billhofer Company

Rangate

Rawles-Aden Lumber Corp.

RazorGage

Rex Lumber Company

Riethmiller Lumber

Ritter Manufacturing Inc.

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

Roger Shaw and Associates

Rose Machinery

Routech

RouterCAD

Royce Ayr Cutting Tools

RT Machine Co.

Safety Speed Cut

Sand-Rite Manufacturing

Sandman Products

Sawmill and Woodlot Magazine

SCM Group USA, Inc.

SCM Group

SCM

Sears Trostel Lumber Co.

Shade Dri




Saw Blades for Laminate Flooring       Laminate flooring will eat up any saw blade. Most installers use cheap blades and expect to wear them out. August 13, 2007

Question
A contractor friend of mine asked me what blade to use for cutting laminate flooring. He said he usually uses a standard carbide tipped blade, but by the end of the job, the blade was shot from cutting the hard laminate. He asked me if a hardi board blade might fair better and I didn't have an answer for him. What type of blades do you use to cut laminate flooring, and does it really wear out a carbide blade within a single (250-400 sq ft) job? What blade do you recommend for a good cut and long life?

Forum Responses
(Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)
From contributor F:
The simple answer is a 60 tooth carbide blade, and plan on a re-grind after every job... or sooner. Expensive blades or melamine blades are no better and no longer lasting. It's not the hardness that causes the wear. The board and the melamine layers are abrasive and wear away the edges. The top layer of laminate flooring is aluminum oxide impregnated melamine. Finer grain, but yes, aluminum oxide is the same stuff used to make sandpaper.

The real deal is that most cut edges are hidden with moldings when the job is complete, so clean cuts are secondary. The sharp blades cut faster and are safer to use. Because of this you may find a 40 tooth blade is satisfactory and less expensive to buy. The blade should pass through the top wear layer and into the core, so blade rotation and plank orientation are important.



From contributor M:
I've gotten to the point that I simply use my circular saw and jig saw to cut laminate flooring. The main reason is that the blades are much cheaper. If you cut it with the good side down, that also minimizes chipping. Also, as contributor F said, since the ends are hidden under moldings, most of us ought to be able to cut straight enough to not have a problem.


From contributor R:
I buy the $7 Dewalt yellow thin kerf blades. You only get a couple of average jobs out of them. I cut free hand (no fence, like an upside circular saw) on a cheap table saw. If you're installing correctly, every cut gets covered by some sort of moulding, so you're not doing any critical cuts here. These floors seem to trash a triple chip just as fast as a cheap blade. I've tried a lot of different types. I'm an endorsed Pergo installer and have about 500 laminate installations jobs under my belt. One thing I can't seem to figure out is what to do with 100 used blades!

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?


Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Flooring

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Millwork Installer




    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.



    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2009 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    RR4 Box 265A
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB













  •   Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article