Sawing and Drying Less Common Species
Port Orford cedar,
From contributor R:
I mill and dry most of the local species, most of which are noncommercial. Here is a picture of a square madrone table recently completed for a client. Most madrone dries fairly well without degrade, but I have had mixed results with thicker than 10/4.
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From contributor G:
Your question got me motivated to cut up three red mulberry logs I have had for a while. No problems cutting it; the only drawback was a face full of bark from the debarker, much like cherry. The boards were much heavier than I expected - I would guess heavier than oak. I have it air drying now, so I have no info on drying.
From contributor A:
I have sawn and dried magnolia both as boards and turning blanks. For the most part it acts like yellow poplar.
From contributor S:
I have sawn and dried four of the species from the list. Boxelder we process the same as we would soft maple. It saws easy. Watch out for sticker stain. We air dry all species 90-120 days in a shed before it goes to the kiln. Persimmon we try to cut in the winter while the sap is down. We process it the same as we would red oak. Make sure to seal the ends of the boards; they will split. Red mulberry we process like we would red oak. It machines great. I love working with it. Magnolia saws great; it does shrink like poplar; watch out for sticker stain.
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