Screen Door Corner Joinery
Down and dirty dowels with a long screw and a plug would work. It would be less expensive and quick, and also give a ten year service. The screw will be the weak point as the wood moves around with the humidity. The screw will loosen and become ineffective after a few years leaving the joint relying on the dowels.
From contributor A:
I concur with Contributor L; however, he is 50% conservative on his failure projections. Do not use poplar.
From contributor U:
One of the benefits of mortise and tenon joints is that the joint is using the same wood as the rest of the door. One problem with biscuits and dowels is the wood they are made from will rot or fail before the rest of the door. Even though they are encased in the wood rails and stiles, they do get wet and when the joint opens up some, they will deteriorate. I would go with the lap epoxy suggestion if youíre not willing to do the mortise and tenon.
From the original questioner:
I will probably do the mortise and tenon joint, I just needed some validation. I have a mortising attachment for my drill press that hasnít seen much action for awhile. I am not sure about using the thermally treated poplar, the sawmill that I usually buy my lumber from is talking it up a lot. I might still use Spanish cedar or mahogany as I know these will be stable and last a while outdoors.
From contributor O:
A bridal joint can be made at the bandsaw, tablesaw, jigsaw in a pinch, at a drill press, or with hand tools surprisingly quickly. Stick with mahogany or cedar.
From contributor C:
If the poplar youíre talking about is what I have known as roasted poplar, then that would be a fine choice. Itís lightweight and insect and rot resistant. Itís chocolate in color and smells like a house fire. The only negative experience I have had with it is checking. It is remarkably stable though. I would definitely do mortise and tenon joints for the one door.
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