Sliding Table Saw Tips
Blade selection is also important. The hollow ground blade and high ATB blade cuts the cleanest but does not hold up as long between sharpenings. For most materials, a triple chip will work okay and last much longer. The rake of the tooth, the height of the blade and material thickness are elements in how well a blade performs.
Blade speed is a factor, also. Faster is not normally better. The more RPM, the more the blade expands and causes a side to side or walking movement (think of a dragster's rear tire on a burnout).
From the original questioner:
I'm sorry, I should have been more specific. I'm looking more for tips related to the actual using of the saw, such as...
Let's say you have an 8' long by 12" wide rip of material that you want to cut down to 11 inches wide. If you set the fence at 11", you don't have enough material left sitting on the sliding table to be able to push the rip through. On my saw it is difficult to run a piece of material 12" wide through the blade without sitting on the sliding table. If I push it solely on the stationary table against the fence, the carriage restricts my movement to the left, making it difficult, and I don't want to reach over the blade to push the rip through, as I value all ten of my fingers. How do you do things like that?
From contributor R:
I'm not sure how you would have trouble with an 11" rip no matter how highly you value your fingers. I am a bit spoiled, as my overarm dust guard lets me push rips through down to a couple of inches, as the guard sits down tight against the material and is only a little more than 1" wide. My slider is 16" wide and it does require a bit of a stretch, but nothing too acrobatic. One thing you might consider is making a sort of 3-4-5 square that you could index off of your cross cut fence for ripping narrow stock on the slider. If you have one of the sliding table clamps, then it becomes quite safe and easy. I don't know if Laguna has many accessories, but Felder and Aigner have many. The question is whether they work on your Laguna. Aigner, and I think Felder, makes a parallel cutting guide which mounts on your slider 'outrigger' support and is exactly what you want for ripping narrow stuff on the slider.
From contributor M:
I have a roller stand to support the infeed side. It is just like making a rip on a cabinet saw. Stand near the blade and feed it through. You might want to take any accessories off. I take my SKEG off (Altendorf) so that if the fence does move, I will not be dancing around it while I am pushing through the blade.
With 11", you will not have enough of an edge to push this through on the carriage side. My manufacturer makes an accessory to make narrow rips on the carriage. If you feel unsafe about making these cuts, you might want to call Laguna to see if they have something.
From contributor S:
The strengths of the sliding saw are many:
1. Safety - back, fingers, etc.
3. Edge straightening prior to jointing (so you're not taking 10 passes on the jointer to take out that nasty kink)
4. Preset flip stops (common case work runs)
5. No chip-out (if you have a scorer)
For casework, your carriage fence should have multiple stops - set these for lengths and widths per your cut list. Utilize the load carrying capacity of the carriage and double or triple stack your panels to maximize your efficiency. But square your stock first. Many manufacturers provide a "jam shoe" for holding rough lumber and ripping a straight edge. This is a huge time saver in the jointing.
As to your ripping to 11" x 8', I would recommend the rip fence. On pieces like this, the sliding table cannot hold a candle to a properly set up rip fence for parallel. There is just not enough width resting against the fence to counter the sawing forces pushing the work piece. You could clamp it at both ends, but then you would have to make sure the original squared edge is perfectly parallel to the blade - 1/16" over 8' is a mere .007" per foot. If a piece of sawdust is holding the narrow edge away from the fence, the opposite end could be off as much as 1/8" or more! Not worth the time to set up. To see one in action go to your local cabinetmaker to watch.
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