Splitting Moulding Profiles
Knife versus saw blade. Depends on the thickness of the cut. We are cutting both ways with great success. With knives you can cut a medium to thick split. This works best for profiles that round over or angle toward the split. For profiles such as 2 x 6 material being split into 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 pieces, saw blades work best.
The secret is:
From contributor R:
I would like to add that if you're going the saw blade direction, an Etp sleeve for your spindle would be the way to go. That way you don't spin the saw blade on the shaft from just using spacers. They are a little costly but worth every penny. Most reputable tooling dealers will carry these.
I too would highly recommend an anti-kickback device. We don't want to hear of any accidents.
From the original questioner:
I have only split about 15 profiles. Mostly small casings, panel moulds, base caps. The problem I have with steel is regrinding the splitters without staggering the knife, which is something I don't want to do at 8000 rpm. I hold the work piece down with felt and the last outfeed wheel, and like contributor D, we don't feed the last piece out. If I could keep from having to stagger my tooling, I wouldn't even consider saws.
From David Rankin, forum technical advisor:
We have a knife product that has been used extensively for splitting profiles such as casings, quarter rounds and shoe mould. The DGK coated steel was run at one of our customer's in red oak in a splitting application at 35 fpm and he ran over 20,000 before the regrind. In his case, the profile split came down in the middle of the wood, allowing a nice blend to the splitter part of the knife.
I would recommend avoiding splitting through the entire thickness of the wood, as this can easily overheat and damage the tool.
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