Spraying White Conversion Varnish
Question (WOODWEB Member) :
From contributor P:
Assemble everything and then spray two coats of M.L. Campbell Clawlock Undercoater. Topcoat with Krystal. It makes a beautiful white finish.
From contributor F:
I spray MLC's Resistant for pigmented finishes and you must, must, must prime before painting. There is not nearly enough pigment in the finish to hide anything. My norm is two coats of Clawlock followed by two coats of Resistant. I also spray everything flat and assemble after. For me it's ten times easier than trying to wrangle full assemblies into the spray booth.
From contributor M:
I've sprayed a lot of MLC Clawlock and Level Primer, I prefer the Level primer. You can spray it without thinning it. Level primer is a great product. However, I don't like their paint topcoat (Stealth). I've always had to whip up a concoction of two or three different solvents in heat, and always ended up having to thin it more than I wanted to but when it was right, it was gorgeous. I'm currently spraying Sherwin Williams Kemvar Plus (surfacer and then topcoat). You have to thin them both a lot as they are very high solids, but they are more user friendly in my opinion. Fish eyes are caused by silicon (or similar) contamination, but chances are you are seeing orange peel in cooler weather. You simply need to heat your paint up to around 80F (give or take), keep your makeup air warm, and use perhaps a bit more reducer.
From contributor G:
I currently use Sherwin-Williams Sherwood CV. I spray two coats of pigmented sealer, then one coat of clear CV sanding with 320 between each coat. I used this combination for years with both Mohawk and Gemini products with great success. Fish eyes are caused by contamination. Things like silicone, or even oil from your hands can wreak havoc on a finish. I wear nitril gloves during final sanding and throughout the finishing process.
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