Stapling Into Hard Wood
From the original questioner:
In the future, I'll certainly steer customers away from hard maple for frame production. However, I would like to figure a way to use the maple that's already been cut. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
From contributor H:
My wife is an upholsterer. She has stapled into every kind of wood with no problem. Oak, ash, soft and hard maple, walnut, cherry, etc. His staples are probably too long, or his air pressure is too low, but probably a combo of both. Maybe he's using a T-50 hand stapler. If that's the case, he's out of luck.
From contributor P:
I have, in desperation, taken a fill of staples to a disk sander and sharpened the legs to more of a point, en masse. Tedious, for sure, but effective. And I would do that only after contributor H's suggestions were in place.
From contributor G:
We have been making furniture frames from alder for the last 26 years and it is the standard for upholstery frames in our market. We are now re-upholstering a sectional we built 20 years ago and the frame is as good as the day it was built. We glue and staple then dowel all joints.
From Professor Gene Wengert, forum technical advisor:
Adding to contributor H's comments: Alder is much softer than hard maple but is close to soft maple. The density of wood is a good indicator of the ease of stapling. The power of a staple increases proportional to the length. However, the power increases much faster as the wood's density increases. So with hard maple, which is more dense than alder, you will get the same holding power from a staple about half as long.
Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?