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Supporting a Molded Plastic Sink
Question
Forum Responses
From the original questioner: Yes, I've already done that... birch ply ribs (1.5" deep) along the length of the thing and those will rest on 2x4 cross members. I suppose those should take up the slack. Any recommendations for sealing the rim? I really can't think of anything that would work with a flexible rim like that and look decent at the same time. From contributor L: It's been a long time since I've had my hands wet, but maybe this will help... The support structure contributor J suggests will be best. Making the ribs perpendicular to the sink's rib-structure would be stronger still. As far as caulk, whenever I've got a problem surface, I use Sikaflex. Just make sure to use gloves and have some acetone around for clean up. The thing I'm most concerned about is your countertop. Photo chemistry will make a mess of that in record time. You might consider p-lam instead of lacquered plywood. Of course, you know the inherent problems of having your darkroom double as a kitchen? Don't forget an exhaust fan that is light baffled.
From the original questioner: Well - response appreciated. I'm an architect and do a lot of structural work. I'm quite satisfied with the structural solution. Just not with the lips so much. I feel my solution is good for (direct reinforcing) instead of running members crosswise and allowing the surface of the sink to flex like you were suggesting. So that's not going to change. I suspect the darkroom chemicals (black and white only) will not interact too badly with the lacquer (we're talking about soda-water here) - though most of the processing should occur in drums anyway. Hopefully there won't be too much splashing around. Though perhaps I should have considered an epoxy surface. Thanks for the Sikaflex tip. Is it colored? I'm just concerned with the sealant being visible.
From contributor D: When setting fiberglass subs, I've always bedded it in a big wet pile of plaster. When the plaster sets, you have a rock hard custom molded support system and it never breaks down or crumbles. People have been doing it this way for years and years as far as I know. Not sure if this is feasible in your situation, but I'm quite sure it would work if your cabinet box can be designed to accommodate the plaster. Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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