Supporting the Front of a Farmhouse Sink Cabinet
"Farmhouse" sinks have issues when it comes to support and access. August 14, 2007
I have constructed a normal sink base cabinet with 2" face frames. I left out the top rail of face frame and the mid-rail above doors is at the correct height for the apron of the sink to clear by 1/16" or so when top of sink is flush with top of cabinet (undermount). The sink is 33" wide at the apron and top and the cabinet is 37" wide. So with 2" face frames, the opening would be 33". The problem is that the sink needs to be supported from below the basin, although Kohler, the manufacturer, does not say this and their install guide is worthless. Below the basin are four tiny feet which are 3 1/2" in from the edges of the sink (apron and top rim) which appear to be where it should be supported. The support frame would have to be at least 7 or 8" narrower than the face frame opening itself to do it this way. I must have it wrong - this cannot be true, as it would ruin the cabinet for anything, practically, but supporting the sink, and not give much room for accessing plumbing. Does someone know a way that this type of cabinet and this sink can work without the support frame crowding the whole cabinet?
From contributor R:
I had to do much the same as you are referring to. The cabinet was pretty well useless underneath for anything taller than about 12". We couldn't think of any other way to support it. Don't know the exact weight of the sink, but it required two people to lift and set in place, and we were struggling. We had to do a sub-structure underneath so we could sleep at night. I want to say it was limestone? Not much room for the plumber either.
From contributor L:
Do them all the time. Build whatever is necessary and don't grieve over the lost space. If your customer wants to live in the past or on the farm, she can live with the consequences. Save some money on doors, too. Use a flour-sack for a curtain to hide the plumbing and the chamberpot!
From contributor J:
I built my sink base with a 1" - 1 piece solid ply top. I added a couple 1"x1" cleats to the bottom running front to back for extra support. Plenty of support and the inside of the cabinet is left open for whatever. The key was spending time planning this specific cabinet before I cut the first piece. Your opening is a bit wider, as mine is a 26" sink, but if you needed to, you could always add a couple crosspieces underneath for additional support and still keep most of your access. The sink I used was a Franke with a webbed bottom, but it shouldn't make any difference having the feet.
The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment).
Comment from contributor A:
I have used a 21" h. x 24" deep wall cabinet instead of an apron sink base cabinet. It works out great since the cabinet already comes with a solid top. The only additional work is blocking below to accept toe kick material. Use deco fillers on both sides of the cabinet to finish off the look.
Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?
Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base
KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking: Custom Cabinet Construction
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in
any manner without permission of the Editor.
Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.
The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices.
What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe
for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use
of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation,
and at their own risk.
335 Bedell Road
Montrose, PA 18801
Copyright © 1996-2016 - WOODWEB ® Inc.