Using Euro-Style Hinges On Face-Frame Cabinets

      Pros share tips and methods for a tricky problem: using "Euro" hardware with face-frame cabinets. December 28, 2005

Question
I think I have a scheme for using system holes to mount euro hinges on inset face frame applications. Blum hinges call for a 9 mm plate to make a door have no overhang. If I use an 18mm plate, and overhang my face frame 9mm to the inside of the cabinet, can't I put them in system holes? Does anyone know why this wouldn’t work?

Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor A:
Your math looks good, but the question is, can you consistently leave your face frames at 9mm off the partitions? I think the easier route - if you want to use non-face frame plates - is to make your partitions flush with the face frame edges. You can see that accuracy with your eye.



From contributor B:
Just try it. I have not had consistent results, but I did not use Blum. It seems like the 37mm spacing was too far forward - the doors could not be adjusted back far enough. But again, just try it. Ask your rep for some samples.


From the original questioner:
I guess there's no harm in trying. If it doesn't work, I'll just fur it out the usual way. I hate to make the sides flush because then you're really losing space.


From contributor D:
You could just use the frame plate that they make. I guess you'd have to screw them on though, but that’s not a big deal. They screw from behind and you need about 5/8" minimum from frame edge to wall. They've got frame plates for overlay doors too, not counting the compact 33 series.


From contributor E:
It works fine. We build frames from 7/8" with 13/16" doors so the frame lines up with the plane of the door, otherwise your mounting holes need to be set back a little. You can also use the Blum full-inset (18mm crank) hinge with a 0 or 3 mm plate to get the same effect with a wall flush to the face frame.


From contributor B:
Have you thought about making frameless cabinets? You don't lose the space, and this Euro stuff was made for it.


From the original questioner:
There are lots of good ideas here. I need to do the full flush inset because that's what the client wants. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother and I'd use Euro.


From contributor F:
Contributor E is right in using thicker stock for face frames if you are trying to use system holes with a 37mm setback. One of the best posters on this site is using a system that allows him to build a Euro box and apply a F/F on it. He also makes his mid rails 1-1/4" wide to allow for drawer slides and still stay within a 32mm system. I've used this system for a year now and it works like a charm.


From contributor G:
We recently went through this discussion. Flush ends to face frame are a pain to assemble and reveal any glue squeeze-out or stain leaking under blue tape if you finish assembled. Our solution (we also do 99% inset flush) is to use a hinge/plate made for a 1/8 reveal. We make our stiles 1-3/4" allowing 3 sides and 2 reveals. This works great. The hinges are Italian. Blum doesn't make such a hinge apparently. The ends with frame and panel get a bead on the stile back side and 1/8 reveal past the finished end also. So 1-3/4 stiles work on almost all situations. Drawer stacks next to doors will need furring out

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