Veneering a Cube

      Ideas for applying veneer to the outside of a box. November 14, 2009

Question
I have been doing veneering for a number of years and still don't have an effective way to veneer all sides of a cube shaped object after assembly. Most of the sides can be veneered before assembly, but there will be one or two sides that still need veneering after assembly. What is the best method for doing this, assuming I don't want to use contact cement or iron-on veneer? A vacuum bag wouldn't work because of the inside of the cube.

Forum Responses
(Veneer Forum)
From contributor T:
Get some veneer with a PSA back. I have been using it for years, with great results. Goes on just like a big sticker, and no bubbles.



From contributor O:
Miterfold them together. We have done this with sheet stock and veneer many times. Both large (mannequin cube stands) and small. We are presently doing some Madagascar ebony jewelry showcase risers this way.

We flat panel vac bag the pieces. Cut your MDF core stock oversize, as separate pieces for grain direction/match (5 sided?). Layout on bench - # edges, faces, etc. with balance/backer material - glue up in bag. Cut on slider or left tilt saw - 45+% slightly to allow for glue, tape up with 3M packing tape or blue tape for delicate stuff. Get some help to gently flip this over, all 5 pieces or sandwich/flip it between 2 sheets to get the valleys (up). Yellow/brown glue to match. Yes, it may be a delicate corner with some veneers; depends on the end use and finish.



From contributor B:
Why not use hot hide glue?


From John Van Brussel, forum technical advisor:
If you use a paper backed veneer you could also use FSV glue. This is applied to the cube and then scraped with a veneer hammer or scraper to form the bond.


From the original questioner:
Thanks for all the info. I will probably do the miter fold procedure, although for this project the cube is actually angled on three sides and open on the inside through a door so everything is visible and strange angles. I am avoiding the hide glue and press-on systems because this is a vanity cabinet going in a bathroom, so heat and moisture will always be around. I haven't tried the FSV glues before; do they only work with paper backed veneers, or could you use them with regular veneers if working fast enough?

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  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Veneer

  • KnowledgeBase: Veneer: Techniques


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