Veneering a Cylinder
Quick description of a workable technique for veneering a cylindrical object. March 14, 2006
I have two questions. First, I need to veneer a cylinder approx 18" in diameter with paperback Maple veneer. What is the best way to do this? I have a vacuum bag system - is this is a possibility? Second, I need to veneer a curved surface that cannot be pressed. I do not like contact cement. Can anyone suggest another method/adhesive for this application?
From contributor A:
In response to your first question, let me draw you a mental picture. We are looking at the cylinder from the end view. You will do a two stage press. 18 dia = 56.5 face, make a face 60 inches wide. Use a bladder bag or stuff the inside with bubble wrap to prevent distortion of the core material. You may also want to cover the veneer with a paper slip sheet. This prevents the bag from pulling apart the veneer once pressure sets in. On the first press you will veneer from 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock, coating only this area with adhesive. When time is up, rotate the cylinder 180 degrees and work on the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock area. Pull up the veneer and overlap it as tight as you can. Temporarily secure with veneer tape. Using a very sharp blade and a straight edge, cut the two pieces of veneer in the same manner that you would cut overlapping wall paper. Make sure that you angle your cutting tool about 10 or 15 degrees. This will create an overlay joint, rather than a perpendicular joint. The overlap aids in masking the joint line better. Peel back the veneer; apply adhesive, tape the veneer in place and press. Use FSV adhesive. This is a product that we offer that you can hammer veneer with. It is a modified PVA with a fast tack (3 to 5 minute open time).
Regarding veneering a curved surface that can not be pressed, use FSV as well for this application.
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