Watco Teak Oil Problem

02/03/2015


From original questioner:

Hi everyone, I have had a big problem with teak oil finish. I made a sat of live oak benches and finished them with Teak Oil, I followed directions to the letter. 6 days after finishing them we delivered them. After install it rained for a few hours and the Teak Oil bled out onto the concrete!! I have used this product a lot and have never seen this happen. The benches are anchored down and cannot be moved. What are the odds of this being a one time event? Does anyone have any experience with this happening? I am very worried about repeated and permanent staining of the concrete!!!! Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

From contributor ri


Early in my career, I used oil on red oak. It bled back for a couple of days. I then used compressed air to blow out oil that was wet in the pores. No idea if your oil is done running.

From contributor Ch


Stephen-
We have experienced Watco bleeding the finish from the pores when used with oak or open grain woods. We used a paint gun to warm the surface and the oil would bubble from the pores. Heat till the oil bubbles no more, wiping with a cloth as it "boils " out.
We called it "forced drying" and used this technique when we needed to speed up the drying time of the oil. Be careful as you can scorch the wood with excessive heat.
Best Regards,
Chip

From contributor St


Chip, Thank you for the response! I didn't even think about that. Great idea! I am going to try it, I have used a heat gun a lot and will be careful. I am going to try "krud kutter" and a shop vac to remove the staining on the concrete. Hopefully there is no permanent staining to the concrete. I am going to try and post a photo late today. Thanks again

From contributor RR


If you're trying to finish teak with oil for outdoor use, you should try Tung oil, Real tung oil not tung oil-like or partial tung oil. Watco is, and always has been a "semi-professional" type finish. I make outdoor furniture and have worked on marine brightwork for nearly 50 years. If you're not going to varnish (with a real marine varnish) then tung oil will work, but I've never used just a single coat, besides it takes quite a while for it to "auto-crosslink"