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Wood Edge Detail for a Laminate Countertop
Question
 Click here for full size image Forum Responses
From contributor C: I have to disagree about the red rectangle part being unnecessary. I used to work in a conference table factory that made tables for Steelcase, Herman Miller, Haworth and other heavyweights and they always required a 3" to 5" cleat (the red portion in the drawing) for quality perception. Apparently, they did studies that showed people feel behind the wood edge underneath the table to satisfy themselves it is a quality product. If the edge is just 1" thick, the quality perception drops considerably. We had to sand, finish, and round over the back edge so it had a "friendly" feel. I think the bevel cut mentioned above is a better way to handle the p-lam to wood transition. That stepped detail will gather all kinds of crud, and tend to wear and chip easily.
From contributor D: I do these 70% of the time with laminate countertops. I agree with Contributor F. Leaving the edge of the laminate exposed is not only undesirable in looks but is vulnerable to chips and nicks. I flush my wood edge even with laminate after it is glued to the deck. I do this with pocket screws and glue from underneath the deck. Then the laminate is protected from abuse. If yours is going to be used for a kitchen counter top I wouldn't worry about your "red" section being particle board. It’s only going to overhang the cabinet edge 1" and if you use 3/4" stock for your front, that 1/4" of particle board is no big deal. I usually use 6/4 stock for my face edge and plane it down to 1" thick. Now if it’s for a table top where the bottom is exposed, then I agree with Contributor C. Carry the wood back approximately 3-4 inches so the feel with the hands is a good one.  Click here for full size image From contributor F: Yes, I assumed we were talking kitchen countertops. On a restaurant dining table the "red piece" (buildup) is typically used. From contributor P: I have built too many tops like this in both a residential and commercial setting. I think the exposed edge of the laminate is a mistake and not only prone to chipping but in a kitchen environment repeated exposure to liquids will eventually ruin the glue joint and if the top is made of particleboard it is even more of a problem. I would build the top and install chosen laminate, rout flush and add the edgebanding. Something that looks interesting that we have done also is to add a groove between the laminate and the hardwood edge that is about 1/8 inch wide by about a 1/16 deep. Finish the hardwood and glaze with appropriate color and clear over thoroughly to seal it. This adds a nice touch and defines the fact that there is a hardwood edge a little more. If you want to go a step further in assuring longevity in a wet environment, there are plywoods available designed specifically for kitchen countertops. I cannot remember the name but it is basically made with more glue and specifically moisture resistant ones.
From contributor B: To contributor D: Do you bevel the wood edge before you attach it too? I’m just curious because I always put the wood on, then the laminate, then trim the lam and then rout the edge. From contributor D: I actually glue the laminate first to the substrate. Then I use my flush bit on my router and trim the excess laminate back. If I have pre-finished my edge piece I then glue the backside and pocket screw it flush with the laminate. If I haven't pre-finished it I glue the back side, pocket screw it flush with the laminate. Then I will route it with either a 1/2 roundover or a 45 chamfer. Then I mask off the laminate and proceed to staining and lacquering. From contributor G: To the original questioner: You lay the laminate after you glue the timber on then router the edge profile. I have made hundreds of bench tops this way with no problems.
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