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Mold prevention on Eastern Red Cedar5/15
I recently removed the bark from spring cut Eastern Red Cedar cut less than 2 weeks. No water was used in the process and most of the bark was peeled off in sheets by shoving a slightly sharpened paint stirring stick under the bark. The outside cambium layer began to show mold fuz where bark had been removed after only a week at 75 deg F (likely due to very low air flow in storage). In this early stage I am confident it can be cleaned and the mold is not to far into the wood. In the short term I am not likely to have a better storage area, so I need to clean the mold and prevent its return under the current storage conditions (if possible).
1) Has anyone had any experience using sodium carbonate blends to prevent mold from returning?
2) Would cleaning the mold with denatured alcohol or some other similar substance be recommended prior to applying an anti mold treatment. I thought this would also help remove some of the residual sap.
3) Would a chlorine based product be a better solution (a little hesitant to use these due to having read the limitations and issues with "bleach" based cleaners).
Mold fungi on wood need moisture, air, warm temperatures over 50 F, and food to be active. You must eliminate one of the four to stop growth, or else, poison the food. So, do not clean until you change the conditions. Note that mold likes the sugars right under the bark, so they do not grow into the wood. Other fungi do grow into the wood, such as blue stain.
Tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) cleaners with elbow grease do well on cleaning existing mold from wood surfaces
Bleach kills mold, but does not always clean, and does not prevent future activity. Do not mix TSP and bleach, as the gas phosgene is created and that is deadly. Bleach can change wood color.
Note that fungicides on the wood can carry over and be in the sanding dust or in the final product, so usually we avoid them, especially if not approved for wood use or if you do not have a great dust system in your shop.