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Band saw blade for stainless steel4/19
I've been told one exists. Before I buy just anyone's. Have you and what did you buy?
This project has stainless steel baseboard and it's fall into my section of work. Not only will we be mitering but scribing to the floor.
We've used the Porta band for cuts on steel base before. Not on stainless steel. Now with ripping/scribing..
Hoping you folks have some suggestions!
Ya, I know, it's not in Section 0600 per-say.. but the architect put it there and no one wishes to argue with an architect anymore...
McMaster Carr, Showed up on the bottom of the page of bandsaw blades. Under Sawing & Cutting
I cut all my stainless on a cold saw so I can't recommend a specific blade but I get my band saw blades from spectrum supply.
They have decent blade descriptions on their site or contact them for a recommendation. Some blades are welded in Massachusetts others in Ohio and generally quick to ship.
If you are cutting and scribing a countertop, I'd use a right angle grinder with a stainless steel cut off wheel. Cutting thing gauge sheet metal with a bandsaw blade doesn't give the best edge. Lots of rattling and bouncing! The rule of thumb for cutting most anything is to have 3 teeth in the cut. Hard to do with sheet metal.
if the stainless is thin enough you could use a corded or cordless shear.
People get scared by stainless. It can be drilled with ordinary HSS drill bits. They make carbide toothed sawblades for chop boxes. They also sell inexpensive carbide hole saws for stainless.
The problem is work hardening. When drilling it, you need to remove the correct amount of material with each bite. Otherwise you locally harden the surface to that of a file.
I would think with the stainless being thin and a shear taking a uniform bite. Then it should work fine.
Stainless is tricky and dido on the work hardening. If doing slight undulations when cope to fit I would use a variable speed right angle grinder - slow with a zirc flap wheel 60grit from Klingspor as the zirc keeps the stainless cooler and key is to moving as to not build up heat. You don't want to have to take out heat marks from grinding and if scribing a bunch use their thin kerf cut off wheels slow speed. Wear face shield & glasses though (from experience, don't ask). My cold saw is great but not for cope to fit and on sight work. Lastly use new disc and flap wheels because if it has been used before with steel you will cross contaminate and the stainless especial 304 will start rusting and can be pretty ugly if in wet areas within 1yr and then the call back. Stainless is just a trade name and unless using 316 which has more nickel and chrome content it will weather, but 316 is less common and much more expensive. Best of luck.
Dido? She was the queen of Carthage, and Carthago, delende est.
Was that meant to be "dado"? No, that doesn't work. Oh, ditto. Wow, that word is hard to spell.
As is "per se", apparently. I have always maintained that tradesmen need not be illiterate, but you guys are proving me wrong.
Another grammar nanny I see...