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i'll preface this by saying i never worked for another shop so i don't have anyone else's experience to draw from.
we have a new-ish grizzly slr that we use to mostly to straight edge lumber with. we maybe do things differently in that we joint and plane the faces before straightening on the slr. we then joint these straightened edges before gluing up. we have had residual oil on the bottom face before, but it has been a non-issue since we do a lot of sanding (wide belt and ros) after this. however, we occasionally do edge grain glue ups and this oil seems to be a culprit in inconsistent glue joints. is there a different method i should be using?
our machine didn't seem to show much oil when we first got it and it seems like it has gotten progressively worse.
grizzly support wasn't helpful and there is not adjustment to the amount of oil applied to the chain. it seems like we get more oil on the wood as the machine is first used after sitting idle for long periods/overnight. the oil feeds into a brush that coats the back of the chain. there is a little adjustment in the contact points of where the brush hits the chain but that appears to be it. is this an item that needs to be replaced ever so often, or readjusted?
My experience has been with Diehl saws, and when they are maintained, they are wonderful machines, capable of running 24 hrs a day for....years.
A Ripsaw is considered a rough mill machine, and is often the first machine the lumber meets after the kiln. It is used for breaking down the boards into sizes for all subsequent operations. We used ours to make molding blanks by the thousands, as well as rip onesies and twosies for custom work.
The ripsaw would produce a glue line quality joint on lumber - even rough boards. We would glue up 1x12 directly off the saw nearly every day. It required a machine properly maintained and set up, as well as a saw blade that was sharpened for that type of work.
One edge of the rough boards would be straightened using either the old Carter shadow line from above, or the newer laser lines. This line had to align properly with the projected cut and the saw blade. Then that straight and clean edge would be placed against the short fence and ripped to the width needed. The operator had to have some experience and skill to get consistent results.
If we wanted maximum width from the boards, the fence was pushed aside, and the whole board could be ripped on one edge, then the other. Knots or other defects could also be removed.
If the oilers were not adjusted correctly on our saws, some oil might show up on the lumber, but would be milled off in subsequent operations. The Diehl machines had lower tracks with triangular teeth that could leave dents in pine. It is not considered a finish machine, with the exception of that nice glue line.
thanks for your reply.
how would you proceed in my situation? would replacing or adjusting the brush that applies the oil help limit the amount that is transferred to the lumber? is there an alternative order of events that would help me for edge grain glue ups? is it me (methods of work) or my equipment that is causing this problem?
My ripsaw also lays down too much oil and we just live with it. Too much is better than not enough from the saws perspective. We always plane or widebelt sand after ripping or gluing up panels. Maybe try that. We have never had problems with oil affecting the glue or finish.
A good ripsaw leaves a more desirable glue surface than a jointer so I think you are doing extra work by running over a jointer. Make sure the board is in contact with the ripfence it's full length as it is fed through the ripsaw. If it is you will get a glue joint ready cut.
Mr google - I don't know what you are making, and that may influence your sequence, but the SLR is most often the first station for rough lumber. The other option is cross cut to rough length first, then rip. Some high volume rough mills will also S2S over thick to get a visual, then rip or cross cut.
I would use your machine as early in the process that I could, so subsequent operations could eliminate the oil.
Is the Grizzly a true glue line rip saw? Is the oil OK, or is it broken, out of adjustment or just a poor design? I would lean towards poor design. Grizzly and Laguna are made for shops 'moving up' and they may not know the questions to ask, or the things to look for in more productive equipment.
Their competitors will call it a glue line rip if it is so.
I know Diehl saws, and if the chain races are not worn and the tolerances are held, it is nothing to get a perfect glue line on every piece of lumber, 16' long, 8 hrs a day or more, for 25 years.
What are you making?
we're making edge grain table tops, so the ultimate quality of the cut edge off the slr is irrelevant for this product (our glue surfaces are achieved by the jointer and planer).
i understand what you are saying about a glue quality joint and we don't even entertain this from our saw. what would the application be for you to rip rough lumber and go straight to glue up? i can only think of ripping narrow pieces from wider boards, gluing up in the rough (but with glue line edges), and then milling to s4s or molding from there. otherwise, the initial straight lining would help to make straight pieces to joint and plane, but the straight edge achieved by the slr saw wouldn't necessarily be 90* to the face since this was done while the lumber was still rough.
We used slrs and rough lumber for molder blanks and architectural parts. And for random width boards for glue for width, and also s2s parts that would glue for width, then plane or sand.
For countertops, or 8/4 stock, we would rip rough lumber to over width, then face and edge each piece, then plane for final width, minimum two passes, then glue for width, then plane, then sand.
We have an Extrema SLR, Taiwan, 13 years old. The oiler is electrical and you can set how often it gives a shot to the chain. No issues getting oil on the wood. We do both molder blanks and panel glue ups. Excellent edge quality, better than jointing. I'd be really surprised if your oiler wasn't adjustable.
where is the adjustment on the oiler? i think my machine is the same as your's (mine is a 2005).
The oiler on ours is a "CESP type Electric Lubricator" There is a wiring box on top that has connections for setting the timing. Operation times available: 2,3,5,10,15,20,25,30 seconds.