Door with solid wood slats on one side

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Hi folks - I need to make a pair of doors (20" wide x 84" high) with a vertical slat detail on one face. The other side gets a mirror (which will likely be glued in place - the pdf says otherwise but ignore it). The slats are going to be 1/2" thick, varying widths (from 3/4" to 1-1/2"), each slat separated by 1/4" gap.

I'm trying to decide how to build these things. Should I be concerned with warping (ie: should I try to balance the panel somehow)? I was thinking of using 1" thick ply and gluing the slats to the surface. These doors are going to be on large Soss hinges, so that edge will likely be held flat.

Any help is appreciated!

Click the link below to download the file included with this post.

IMG_20180402_0002.pdf

Harold morantz

Sounds like a disaster in the making. Doors of that size need to be balanced to stay flat. Who thoughtbup this bright design? Wouldn’t touch it with a ten foot pole.

Jason Gooch

Member

....

gosh thanks for the input Harold.

Anyone else...?

Tom Gardiner

I don't see a problem with the build as sketched. The slats operate independently to each other so will not exert appreciable force from expansion/contraction.
I would suggest fully finishing the plywood and slats before assembly to save a monumental hassle of spray and scuffing.

Mark B

Member

Id personally ditch the gluing all around if at all possible even with the ply. But thats just me.

Jason Gooch

Member

Hey Mark, do you mean just mechanically attach the wood slats, no glue? I think I'm going to have to glue the mirror for safety, I was thinking that might serve to balance the wood somewhat.

duster

Without a frame, that plywood panel is probably going to cup or bow in one direction or another. If your mirror is fastened to it tightly, you're going to end up with a distorted funhouse effect when you look in the mirror.

Jason Gooch

Member

One side of the door should be held fairly well by the hinges (using the heavy Soss hinges). I'm thinking of using a straight piece of square or rectangular tube stock aluminum on the back side of the open end to stiffen it up. Think that might help?

David R Sochar

Member

First, ditch the Soss Hinges. Use Tectus or Sugatsune. I think Soss is German for "sag". The Tectus and Sugatsune are adjustable 3 ways and are so much bette made you won't believe it.

Then build simple frame and panel doors, 1-3/8" thick solid wood frames with 1/2" panels offset to be flush on one side (slats), and attach the slats with glue. The door will not warp if you use good door making practice.

With any of the 3 hinges mentioned, you will have trouble with a 1/2" x narrow slat on the edges without the hinge coming thru. Usually those hinges give an expectation of 180 degrees of swing.

Get your specs for the hinges and draw that detail to full size as a cross section. I think this may be your real problem.

Jason Gooch

Member

Thanks for your thoughts David. I'm not familiar with the Tectus, I'll look into those. I haven't installed many Soss, but haven't had complaints other than my own (they're a pain).

I'm a bit confused on your explanation of 1-3/8" solid with 1/2" panels. Are you suggesting routing the frame to inset the 1/2" skins? Otherwise it seems like the door will end up being crazy thick (2-7/8"?). I might be missing something.

Thanks again - Jason

rich c.

I'd never glue in a mirror. Incredible number of ways the customer can damage it. Then it's a real mess to replace. Retainers or wood frame to hold in place.

David R Sochar

Member

Make the 1/2" panel plow to one side of the frame instead of the center as usual. Place it so that a 1/4" rabbeted 1/2" ply panel will fit into it and be flush on the face. Draw it in cross section and you will see it.

The Tectus is what I am familiar with. Sugatsune also has them. Like the difference between Mercedes and roller skates.

Tectus Hinges in This Is Carpentry

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