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Breadboard Ends on Island top4/28
Adding breadboard ends to island top. Should I slightly ease endgrain shoulder edge and breadboard edge for future movement and avoid finish break? Anyone got any tricks to keeping ends tight? I offset my oblong tongue slots by 1/32" to force the ends inward but thats all I got.
It would be helpful to know what type of wood you are using the the size of the top.
would think using pinned tenons with slots for the pins to allow the center to grow and shrink. I did a 1/4 sawn white oak table with breadboard ends and it would change 1/4" over the seasons. I did floating tenons as described and over 20 years later it is fine. You are going to see the seam and the finish will crack.
Do not over promise on this and celebrate the joint!
It better be eased all over so people don't get a splinter. On a slab that wide, the breadboard could be out of flush by at least 1/4" or more on each side. I hate breadboards that look like that. Nothing wrong with end grain in my opinion.
On table tops that I do, I cut the tenons but also have the tenons haunched between the tenons so the entire top is in the groove of the bread board end. I have seen tables with doweled bread boards where the top warps a little and raises above the breadboard end. Glue the center 4 to 5 inches, pin the rest. I have the pins on the bottom of the table because I have had seasonal movement that actually pull the pins down a little. On the face where the bread board end meets the end grain of the top, I chamfer the top and breadboard. A few swipes with a block plane making maybe a 1/16" flat. After every finish coat I apply, I take a straight razor and place it in the groove and with a slight tap of a hammer, cut the finish. That way it expands with out the white finish crack.
I just looked at my 15 year old 1" thick red oak kitchen table top.