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Tandems - Anyone else have this issue?10/22
Been using Tandems for over a decade. Now using the soft close version, Blumotion.
I always have a problem with the drawer front tilting ever so slightly. Top is always tipped out a bit. Of course the bigger the drawer the more noticeable it is.
Making sure that my drawers aren't the problem, and they are square from top to bottom on the face of the drawer.
So I'm wondering if it's just me and it's something I'm doing or if anyone else has noticed this too.
Getting to the point I'm going to start putting them in sloped down from the front of the cabinet to the back to eliminate his issue.
I can't imagine that I'm making my drawers out of square, always the same way. The fronts never tip out at the bottom.
Yes, I've noticed it. Seems to be hit or miss, defiantly interested in what the others have to say. I've thought about moving the mounting holes down in the back to compensate
Well thank goodness it isn't just me. I'm putting a bunch of drawer fronts on right now and just put a .027" shim under the front of the slide and it seems to have corrected the issue. This is on a 9 3/8" tall drawer with an 11 5/8" tall drawer front. Looks dead parallel to me now.
Dead giveaway that my drawer parts aren't out of square is the fact that if it was the left and the right sides, one would lean out and the other would lean in because I'm using Baltic Birch and maintain the face as the inside of the drawers all the time. If that was the case the drawer would have a twist and they are dead flat, zero rocking on my tablesaw surface which is dead flat true.
Thanks for the confirmation.
Just did a trash pullout which is a door under a separate drawer front. Looks like .030"-.035 would have been better. It's darn close to parallel but not perfect.
Dont tandem slides have tilt adjustments at the back of the slide? A lever action to raise or lower the slide pin. I haven't used them in years.
It only tilts up, which would make the problem worse.
If they had their stuff together the back would be in the middle so you could go up or down, but it only has the raise option.
I should've sworn you could go down a little.
I've seen this. The taller the drawer, and the shorter the slide, the more pronounced it is.
We've talked about setting the back edge of the drawer slide down a little bit, then adjusting every single one back up.
same here I just inset the slide the full 1/8"and it doesn't really show. a few tho over the front thickness inset a tad deeper really isn't seen. I wood definitely grab your blum rep and have him show how to fix and notify Blum about problem
I checked the rear up/down adjustment on about 36 slides I had installed. They were all over the place. Some of them were bottomed out at the lowest level. Not many but a few had been turned up one click. A bunch of them, maybe 10 had been turned up 3 clicks. I had one Movento slide and that was all the way down at no clicks.
A few of them in the island I did were three clicks up so I set them back at zero and it really didn't make that much of a difference. The .027" shim made a huge difference. The last 4 or 5 cabs I did a .030" shim and that worked well too.
There is definitely something not right going on with them. They don't ride parallel with the mounting bracket.
unless you have an extra bad batch, this is kinda how they work. A little sloppy. the fully adjustable front clips should help out. bottom out the back and raise the front if necessary. I dont usually have a problem that cant be adjusted out.
I've noticed this as well.
I raise the fronts about an 1/8, using the height adjustment in the locking device, before the fronts are attached. Which also helps me in the event that I need to drop a front slightly. Before discovering this I used to attach fronts with the locking device height adjustment bottomed out, which meant I could only raise fronts.
I talked with a Blum rep. He said without seeing what I'm doing he couldn't state for sure what's going on.
But he did say that the hole pattern in the slides makes the slides tip lower in the rear than the front by .009", which is the opposite of my problem.
He also complained that I was using a 1/4" drill instead of a 6mm drill for the rear hole. Said that the rear side to side function would be effected, which it's not for me.
He also said that the slot on the rear needs to be flush with the bottom of the drawer or you might get top tip out. I use a flush cut bit to make my slots so they are flush or darn near close to it.
Squareness of drawer boxes and cabinets, especially the deck since I reference my slides from the deck.
Of course he said they sell 100,000s of these and there are only a few complaints, so it must be something we are doing.
I'm not convinced yet.
Another thing I noticed, and it was only in the current kitchen I was working on was the rear up/down adjusters were not all the way down on all the slides. I know I didn't adjust them so they came from the factory that way. He said they should always be full down.
Just something else for you guys to check.
I use these with rear mounting brackets and always install my rear brackets about a small 1/8" lower than the faceframe. When the guide slips into the rear bracket it is elevated due to the thickness of the metal.