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Router specs for miter folding solid surface11/16
I have an axyz 6010 CNC currently with two spindles and a very old control, amc.
I have a job coming up with 46 units of solid surface tops.
I am wanting to upgrade the CNC to a machine that will be capable of cutting the solid surface tops and also commercial mill work fabrication, tool changer, drill bank, are a must.
I have seen a lot of 10 year old biesseís and weekeís with these specs in to 35 to 55 k range. They seem like they take up a lot of space however.
I have seen several Laguna smartshop 2ís in the 25 to 30 k range that are only a few years old.
My personal inclination is to get an Anderson selexx or giben ( andi branded machine ) in the 40 k range used 4 to 5 years old.
Iím not real concerned about the cut speed ( Iím a one man shop) but I do want accuracy and capacity .
I think I could talk the laguna guys down to the low 20ís
Any thoughts, feedback would be appreciated.
Have you talked to axyz about an update to your current machine?
I have but for the upgrade cost I donít think it will be worth it.
The vacuum table is in need of replacement as well and I would like a phenolic or rubber top vac table the current one is painted MDF
Komo I saw recently at auction
You might try and find a used Northwood or Komo that has a 0-90į saw for mitre folding. I have a Northwood and we are always using the saw for mitre folding everything, including solid surface. Does a much better job than a router bit. If you can find a used machine with a servo saw, that would be even better.
Pat Gilbert, Someone got a bargain!
V grooving with a router bit is quite possible if you are doing a lot an aggregate would be preferable.
Figure exactly what you need.
My advise would be to look around more especially at auctions.
The problems with routing a mitre are quality of the cut. My saw is 9" in diameter and its fairly heavy so my cut is very clean. With a router bit, there is really no movement at the tip of the tool and it seems to push the material instead of cutting it. That said, I still do it successfully with insert tooling where I can't use the saw or if it is something other than a 90į mitre.
What about through cutting a bit more than normal ? Like 1/16 so that the pushing is mostly in the spoilboard and not the material to get a cleaner cut.
I will be using a 1/8Ē round over on the edges anyway so if the miterfold point isnít perfect it will be routed off anyways.
I am doing a job of 46 units and if I can get my old AXYZ to work for this I can pay for a new router just from the proceeds of this one job.
Yes, going deeper would help the cut quality, but not helpful if you want to tape the mitre to act as a hinge. We prefer to cut to the tape and then all you need is glue and some masking tape to hold the angle while the glue cures.
I used to do a lot of V grooves in MDF.
I would do it in multiple passes. I'd guess that the material is your biggest cost here, not machine time.
Use a 91 degree bit and corner clamps when gluing. Pre tape it if you can.
How about this ?
Set up two 91 degree cutters in the router.
Use one to make the first couple passes.
Keep the second to just do the final cut. That way it stays sharp as long as possible.
Are you thinking the pre taping is a benefit on vac hold down or alignment ? I donít mind through cutting a little bit and them having to line up the edges and tape, flip, glue, assemble. Most of the tops are not over 8í long and not too wide. And while not ideal I still think will be much better than clamping and gluing edges.
A little background. I bought the AXYZ for 3500.00 and a 10 horse Becker vac for 4000.00. The project I am doing has 98000.00 of capturable money. Materials are 34000.00. So there is 64000.00 profit sitting there if I can figure this out. That can buy the machine I want to have and own free and clear. My overhead and payroll will be covered by the margin that I make on my guys installing all the cabinets for the project ( supplied by others ) .
The material is 10.00 per square foot and the installed price I have negotiated is 39.00 per square foot. No splashes. And only 1 1/4 thick edges.
Does this seem feasible to you guys with a lot of fab / install under your belts with solid surface ?
Thanks for all the replies, itís a huge help.