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Wax and Wood1/10
Please educate use on coating Turning blanks with wax.
I turn green wood and usually turn it within days of when it is cut.
When I have to set some aside, for whatever reason, I apply paraffin, which I melt in a double boiler, to the end grain.
It has no impact on my work, as it all gets cut off long before I start turning the piece of wood. It stays on the surface of the chunk and once I saw the round blank on the band saw there is no trace of it by the time I get to the lathe.
I'm no fan of paraffin. It gets brittle if too thick, and then cracks off when the wood shrinks. I double coat the end grain with Anchorseal 2. If the wood is really valuable, I press in a piece of glossy magazine paper into the second coat of Anchorseal to increase the barrier. Woodturners are notorious for being cheap. Hope you have a good group to work with. Maybe it's for yourself, even better!
So, how should store my specialty wood after milling?
Paraffin is the classic sealer for green wood. The wax must be heated very hot
Emulsified wax such as Anchor seal works reasonably well and is easier to use. Be sure to coat 2X for best results.
If you are cutting squares for spindle turning, dip the ends into the hot paraffin or paint on the emulsified wax. If you are cutting rounds for bowl blanks, the entire surface should be coated by dipping (paraffin) or brushing.
The waxed turning stock should be stored in a cool storage area away from heat and dry air.
If you are cutting boards or slabs, first coat the end-grain (as soon as the logs are sawn) with emulsified wax (Anchor-seal for example). Start a stack by placing 4x4s under the first layer 18" on center and 4 feet long. Stack the first layer of lumber across the 4x4s. Place the stickers (3/4" thick by 1" wide by 4' long dry sound wood) just inside the ends of the stack and then every 18" directly above each 4x4. The stacks are best managed when they are roughly 4 feet wide, 6-12 feet long (depending on your lumber lengths) and no more than 5 feet tall. Place the best boards near the bottom of the stack and "junk" boards for the top layer. The stack should be in the shade, but with good air flow through it.
If you want to air dry the wood, leave it in the stack roughly one drying season for each inch of lumber thickness.