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Can't get separation between wet and dry bulbs...9/20
We have a nyle L53, without the auto vents and spray.
Any thoughts/ideas on why I can't get separation?
I suspect that your wet-bulb does not have a. Wick on and near the end of the bulb that is soaking wet. So, the bulb is not cooling enough. A second possibility is that there is not enough air blowing across the wet bulb.
A remote third option is that the bulb is not calibrated. Do the two bulbs read the same temperature if you take the wick off the wet bulb and after it dries? That is, does it read the same as the dry bulb?
You should not let an L53 run over 120F wet bulb and you should avoid running it over 120F dry bulb though it is okay to run the dry bulb at the end higher to get that last bit of water out. Running the conditions that you are running is not making use of the L53 but just heating and relying on air leakage to dry. Drop the dry bulb to 120F and leave the wet bulb at 105F depending on what the MC is now and the thickness. Open the vents to cool it down
So what does one do with an older L200 kiln with manual controls, and timer instead of a wet bulb temp? I know that the % timer for compressor control influences this but is there a correlation between them that is preset? Would it be beneficial to add a aftermarket dry bulb temp to this setup?
Due to the equipment’s age, consider carefully if you want to spend money on much better controls. On some ways, it is kinda like putting white wall tires on a VW bug. In any case, you need to measure RH or WB temperatures, as well as DB. A handheld unit is ol, but you will spend time getting data and adjusting the timer. Nyle used to have a small simple measuring and control made by Partlow. It will make drying easier for you and possibly keep the lumber happier too.