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Wapping paperback veneer around tight radiuses perpendicular12/2
I work for a refinisher. I had to remove veneer that cracked and split off of a cedar chest that was damaged by water. I had to reveneer the 3-1/2" high base with a top and bottom radius with about a 1" radius on the top and bottom.
I wanted to use NBL, but i felt it was too tight of a radius to wrap a thicker veneer around such a tight radius. The base is 47-1/2" wide by about 3-1/2" high and the graining had to be vertical, which meant the wrapping of the veneer was going perpendicular to the radius.
We don't have a vac press, so the only solution I could think of was to (don't chastize me) use contact cement that comes in a propane tank a d then after the initial wrapping of the veneer, i put yellow glue across the entire length of the base with blocking on each side and clamped it with woodscrew clamps. (Which i will let dry over night)
When i clamped it, the veneer cracked on me in a few small areas. I'm not worried about that because we are really good at hiding damaged areas.
My question is... Without spending a bunch of time making a jig and since we don't have a vac press, how could I have done this differently and how could I have avoided the veneer splitting out on me since i was wrapping it essentially cross-grain to the radius?
I'm only looking for help, not to get a lecture on how bad veneering with contact cement is.
I would have used wood veneer, no backer, and bent it over a hot pipe like guitar makers do. I would make a matching clamping caul, and clamped it in place. I used contact cement on a job around 1988. It was on a 4" MDF corner radius, and the veneer had a wood backer on a pretty severe angle so it was flexible enough. Glued it on a Friday, came back on Monday and half of it was loose. Everything went through a big heat and humidity swing over the weekend, and everything expanded. I got some cement back in, soften some glue with lacquer thinner, and completely reglued some other pieces. Held me breath through the delivery into a climate controlled office. The owner died about 8 years latter, so finally stopped worrying about it. Never used contact cement again!
Sounds like you were doing a 1920-30 cedar chest.
I prefer using hot hide glue for veneering. Make it your friend, you will like it.
Remember that old veneer like what I believe you are working on would probably have been well served using a damp cloth and hot iron to flatten the existing veneer. Follow that with a tacking iron and rubbing block might have reactivated the old hide glue and eliminated having to reveneer.