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Grain Darkening and Stain Recipe Match for Oak
Question
After sending a few photos of scrap 1 coat stain samples to my customer, he replied with this photo. I found a couple different articles for recipes on Mission finishes, but nothing like this with the light golden, reddish brown, then the darker pores. I understand that it most likely requires wash coats, but I haven't attempted to match anything like this and was hoping someone else has done it before. Any suggestions? He seems patient and I just want to get it right. I have about 4 feet of scrap I was hoping to keep for myself, but it seems I won't be able to now!  Click here for higher quality, full size image Forum Responses
Mission Oak Finish article by Jeff Jewitt
From contributor J: All I see is a dark brown quartz type grain fill followed by the appropriate stain and topcoat. 3 steps, very easy. From contributor A: Put some Gilsonite in the stain and it will darken the open grain without totally darkening everything else. From contributor I: I think the black in the pores and grain is glaze. So the finishing steps should be: 1. Stain (yellow golden color) 2. Wash coat 3. Glaze (dark brown or black color) 4. Sealer 5. Brush glaze to darken the edges 6. Sealer 7. Topcoat Try on a scrap first until you get the system down before applying to the product.
From contributor S: Sherwood chestnut stain with Sherwood ebony for the black in the pores, and seal and topcoat. From contributor T: MLC Dark Oak Wiping stain. Seal Coat. Scuff. Van Dyke Brown Vintage Glaze. Clearcoat (x2). From contributor H: I've been restoring Gus furniture for years and have used water based aniline dyes to reproduce their colors. You can use walnut crystal as a base and add either yellow or orange WB powder. The only problem is they fade very quickly and without a good finish, a spot of water will take the color right off. If you can get away with a solvent base stain you will be better off in the long run. You can try starting with a medium walnut and add some base concentrates to bring out any red or orange tones if need be. You also will probably want to keep the topcoat sheen to a dull satin. I'm pretty sure most of the Audi stuff (which I think the coffee table pictured is) are solvent base stain and lacquer topcoats. From the original questioner: Thanks for the recommendations. I am still working on this, but getting close. I started with Transfast Light Oak dye, then shellac, then Colonial Maple stain, shellac, and from there have two samples: one red oak and one Sedona red. Neither are right on, but they are both close, so I might try to mix them at this step. I am thinking I will seal it again after and use English chestnut or dark walnut, finishing with two coats of shellac. Would you like to add information to this article? Interested in writing or submitting an article? Have a question about this article? Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? 
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