I started using wilsonart 800 contact cement recently and though it works very well, it comes red, which is good to see how much stuff is going on but bad because sometimes the glue line is red! and very noticeable. I know the same stuff comes natural color but where i am it takes a long time to get here so my questions are:
- How do you stop this red glue line?
- Is there an alternative name brand that is more readily available than wilsonart that seems to come only from the manufacturer and takes FOREVER
- OR does anyone know of a good wilsonart distributor close to or in florida? other than the manufactuer themselves?
We use Henkel water borne in "natural." Most laminate suppliers also stock adhesives for the trade. If you are buying your laminates from a distributor they should have or be able to get several brands of adhesive in natural. Most of the production shops in our area only use natural. Typically stocked in 5 or 55 gallon containers, totes for large shops.
Thanks larry, i have been tempted to try waterborne, i know our lungs will thank us for it but i guess i have been too chicken to make that giant leap. We have been buying our laminates from dixieply from their ''egger'' line. You know, i did not think to ask them if they sold contact cement, do you know if they do? i will ask them in the morning. thanks!! Oh, where do u get the henkel from? how do you find its bonding strength, dry time etc. compared to the solvent stuff?
RE: Water borne
We've been using water borne contact for many years. There is a learning curve! We spray from a large SS pressure pot (expensive.) It handles a lot like paint as opposed to the typical solvent contact that is stringy. Properly applied (no heavy overlaps) dry time is just slightly longer than solvent. We spray natural and it goes on looking white and turns clearish when dry enough to lay. If there are any areas that are still white, stop, let it dry more. Those areas are telling you that you have poor spray technique!
WB is thin, needs to be sprayed like paint. If you get thick areas they will skin over and be really slow drying. Open time after drying to clear is long with the brand we use. As long as it is protected from dust it doesn't seem to be out of range in at least an hour.
Back when we made the switch and once when we changed brands, we did comparative testing. Not all are =! Some were quite poor. Testing consisted of putting on the specified quantity (checked by weight with a highly accurate scale,) using the pinch roll to get the same pressure on all test pc. I think we made 8 test pc. for each brand. Marked with date, etc. After a few days laying around the shop two were put in the sun for a few weeks, (simulating window displays) two were put in the freezer for a week (simulating a ride in a semi-trailer.) Two were put in an old black metal file cabinet placed on the south side of the building to simulate summer conditions in the semi. Two were kept in the shop, one for long term test, at least 6 months.
Neither the freeze test nor the heat test had much affect on the overall performance. Time did.
We tried to control the variables, but some are always present. The tests #'s were too small to be statistically valid. These were all done using the same laminate & same sheet of P Bd. Last year we had a failure, delamination. The adhesive held but the face of some 1/4" hard board pealed off.
Do your own tests before switching. Learn to spray like high end car painter.
When ever possible we try to use pre-lam done with hard setting glue. Much better than any contact cement.
The only way it can dry in the lines or gun is if you have a leak that lets air in. The gun will get a little dry blob right at the nozzle, easily wiped off. Our guns are in use everyday so not a problem. One time several years ago we had a problem with the glue forming something that looked like cottage cheese in the pail. Changed brands. May have just been a bad batch? Some of the manufacturers of glue (well actually about everything) package under different names. The current adhesive being used here is ITW Stay Put Z100. Seems to be working fine. It was one of those we tested quite a while back.
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