I'm Romain from France. I have been working with wood for a while but this was my first (failed) attempt at a marketry. I thought I would come here where the knowledgable oldtimers are ;))
So. I had two main issues with this project:
1- my veneer started to go all wavy and I had huge problems joining pieces together as they were somehow "streachable" across grain. I first tried wetting them with a sponge and letting them 24 h in the vacuum press. It looked good at first but soon became worst hehe. I then tried the technique in the attached link with poor results. I ended up having inconsistent glue-up on an edge. It seems like there was some "extra material" that didn't know where to go and started ondulating thus leaving me with a lot of touch-up to try to re-glue and "flatten" many spots.
Poor result. Which is sad because it is quite localised.
2- I only had access to Tesa 433 precision masking tape to do all the joint work :/ I know... I just had to for timing reasons (and look at me now). And after a night in my vacuum press it left some ghost marks (residues?) that I am wondering how to remove without damaging the walnut veneer...
Any thoughts or suggestions would be great I feel a bit sad about this piece :/
They say you always remember your first time.....
I remember my first attempt at veneering. It burned very well. It looked like a relief map of the Himalayas.
I suggest Daryl Keil's videos as the best for good basic info, and then the next steps. Then do some practice panels to work out the kinks. It may be that you needed to flatten your veneer first, or two- ply it.
Also, don't rush. Use good old paper veneer tape unless you need some extra pull, and then use the low effluent masking tape - in US it is a yellow tape.
You don't mention glue, but do not use one with a large amount of water - yellow glue is the one I'm thinking of. Plastic resin, Unibond, even epoxy will get better results. The water goes into the veneer and swells it in the bag or clamp. It will go somewhere.
Hi David and thanks for your humour and response.
I used titebond special veneer. first tooth spatula then paint roller...
Any ideas regarding how to get rid of glue parks from tape? I still will give a try and see how far I can go in recovering it...
Methyl Hydrate (wood alcohol) works to gently soften tape adhesive. Moisten a rag and rub residue. You should be able to rub with a finger and roll the tape adhesive off.
I have found that methyl hydrate will also soften PVA on the surface of work so that it can be lifted out of corners without damaging the wood.
What you may also be seeing is a shallow indentation from the tape in the veneer which will disappear when sanding. Another reason to use paper veneer tape, it is thinner.
Good luck next time.
Veneer tape with punched holes works great. You can see the splice lines. The tape is thin and easily removed. Vacuum press sellers usually carry a product made for softening veneer and flattening it. They also sell glue made for veneering so it doesn't bleed through. Google veneering, lots of information and sources.
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