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Holzher 1310 chain feed drive R&R

12/16/16       
Gerry

Hello everyone,

Our Holzher 1310 bander chain drive gear reduction unit has a bad seal between the gear reduction and the motor. This results in oil leaking from the unit and contaminating the electric motor. I have contacted Holzher service looking for a exploded diagram with part numbers so I could have the required seals and bearings gear oil etc on hand when I remove it. They were no help and say they just buy them and install them and don't have any information about servicing them.

If anyone who has done this job could give me some tips before I start it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Gerry

12/16/16       #2: Holzher 1310 chain feed drive R& ...
Bill

I would call Lakeside industrial repair they might be able to help.

Lakeside Industrial

12/18/16       #3: Holzher 1310 chain feed drive R& ...
Gerry

Thanks Bill, I called and left a message I'll let you know how it turns out.

I will document the job when I do it so anyone who has this issue can have the parts on hand when they crack the case.

Gerry

12/18/16       #4: Holzher 1310 chain feed drive R& ...
Derrek

I dont have a diagram, but have had great luck with bearings and seals from my local napa autoparts store. Almost all bearings and seals have a pn on them that they can cross reference. Mine can have them same day in most cases, next day at worst. They are also about 10% the cost for same parts from machine companies

12/21/16       #5: Holzher 1310 chain feed drive R& ...
Gerry

I talked with Lee Johnson at Lakeside and he gave me lots of good information.

Thanks
Gerry

1/29/17       #6: Holzher 1310 chain feed drive R& ...
Gerry

I thought I would post back with the details on how to do this job in case someone needs it.

Start by disconnecting all power to the machine. Then measure the location of the drive sprocket and record it. I also traced the location of the bolt heads to give me a reference for relocation. You need to disconnect the wires from the drive unit motor. The junction cover is held on by 4 phillips head screws. It is a good idea to mark the order of the wires so as not to have the drive run backwards on re-connection. I just marked the wires 1-2-3 from the front of the machine. There are 3 wires connect to the line in fastened with nuts about .25`` and one ground fastened with Phillips head screw. You then need to loosen the plastic bolt head that holds the wires to the outside of the motor. It is a compression style wire retainer just loosen it completely and the wire and retainer will come out. For the next step I would replace the cover on the electrical junction box to prevent damage to the connectors. You need some blocking to support the unit when the bolts are removed. I found it works best if you have a bunch of supports stacked up. I tied the chain back to allow me room to get the unit out without breaking the chain. Loosen the support bolts enough so the unit can move forward then loosen the tensioning bolt on the back of the machine and remove it. force the unit as far forward as possible and make sure your blocks are as close as possible then loosen the support bolts and let the unit drop down on the blocks. I removed and reinstalled the unit with the sprocket on the shaft but it might be less work to remove the sprocket before removing the unit. You need to let the unit down enough to get clearance on the wire bundle that comes through above the motor and gear unit then wiggle it out. Once you have it out drain the oil from the unit. There are 10 bolts holding the unit together I think they are 12mm head. You need to insure the motor and the gear unit separate straight out and don`t let it drop when separating because the alignment pins will damage the case if allowed to pivot when removing. Try not to damage the gasket while doing this. The motor has a collar under the gear on the shaft heat shrunk & pressed on. I don`t have a press or the other tools needed so I took the motor to a motor rewind shop. I had them replace the bearings while they had it apart and they had it back to me in 2 days with a new oil seal bearings and oil washed from the motor and motor dried in the oven. Re assembly is pretty strait forward align the pins replace the bolts an tighten evenly. I could not find a torque rating for the bolt so just snugged them all evenly. The oil speced by the gear unit manufacturer was hard to come by. I was told that Shell Tivela S 220 was required but this oil has been replaced by Shell Omala S4 WE 220. Less than 3 liters is required but I could not purchase quantities smaller than 20 liters at a cost of $230.00 Canadian. You prop the unit level then fill from the top until the oil runs out the side port. The replace the oil plugs and it is ready to go. Reverse removal procedure and when done make sure the chain is feeding the correct direction. I spent a little time fiddling with the unit to make certain the sprocket was aligned parallel to the chain. I have attached a PDF with pictures. If anyone in southern Alberta needs some of the Shell Omala S4 WE 220 oil I have about 16 liters leftover :(

HTH
Gerry

Click the link below to download the file included with this post.

R_R_reduced_size_images_2.pdf


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