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Line boring accuracy

2/7/17       
Kevin Member

A year or so ago I bought a conquest mini 13 line borer, manual, not pneumatic. Using it for shelf holes only. I added proscale stops left and right, and despite my best efforts to dial it in, it just won't produce accurate results. I set each side the same, bore a set of holes, flip the panel end for end, bore the second set, and its off. Usually less than or right around a 16th. The digital stops are set up as accurate as I can calibrate. Its worse when I use the repeat stop indexing pin. Anybody have any advice? Thanks in advance.

2/7/17       #2: Line boring accuracy ...
door shop guy

I bought a brand new Conquest like you have about 5 years ago...made in USA bla bla...got it in and i had the same problem COULD NOT get holes to line up at all.
So i told my salesman come pick it up and i changed it out for a Delta and it is DEAD ON ACCURATE.

I think the Conquest spindles are not spaced evenly and Conquest acted like they had no idea what i was talking about.

2/7/17       #3: Line boring accuracy ...
JimHerron

Install some 8020 backfences left and right along with gravity stops (similar to Blum or Salice hinge boring machines) set at 416mm increments from last hole centers to extend borings out to 8' plus.
Look at Gannomat line borers for example.
Will work dead on balls accurate (technical terminology) all the way out if properly setup with decent calipers and will hold their set.
Remove the pin locators as they are the source of your problems, varying how they land in the hole, deflect, or center in trash or core voids.

2/9/17       #4: Line boring accuracy ...
Gary

Are your panels cut to length accurately? By flipping the panels I assume you are regeresting off of both ends so that can multiply a variation in length.

2/12/17       #5: Line boring accuracy ...
Dave L

What is off by 1/16"?, hole distance from the end of the panel and between plunges?

I don't know about the Conquest, but the sheet metal Delta has flex - any sideways pressure on the handle will shift the head off center.

2/12/17       #6: Line boring accuracy ...
Kevin Member

Thanks for the responses. I'm not sure if the source of the problem is the machine or the flip stops. They are good quality, digital stops with an aluminum fence. I set them by placing a known length piece of mdf between the stop and the point of the middle brad point bit. Each panel is referenced off of the same edge. More problems arise when using the repeat stop pins but sometimes one set of thirteen holes can be off. When I say off, I mean on one cabinet side, the front row and back row of holes are not lined up. Maybe more like 1/32", enough to make the shelf wobble. Maybe I should try referencing off of a different mid than the the middle? Hope this makes some sense.

2/12/17       #7: Line boring accuracy ...
Pat Gilbert

I'm not sure I'm understanding you correctly, but anytime you are indexing in both directions you double the error. This makes it almost impossible to index accurately.

A better option may be that you want to index in one direction with a spacer block for the front and back if you have enough throat to accommodate this.

If I'm misunderstanding you, never mind.

2/12/17       #8: Line boring accuracy ...
Dave L

The most important thing is that the stops are exactly the same distance from the center bit. Any deviation will be doubled because the start holes for the front and back row use opposing stops, e.g. bottom front row hole using the right stop and bottom back row hole using the left stop.

You can test this with scrap that's a hair wider than 2x your fence distance (e.g. 75mm). Put it against the left stop and Just touch it with the spinning brad point tip, flip it end for end and, with it against the right stop, touch it again.

To drill 14 - 26 hole rows, a second set of stops (exactly 416mm from the first set) is best. Always put the same end (e.g. bottom) of the panel against the stops.

My earlier comment about the Delta seems to have been overstated, I have to try pretty hard to get the head to move 1/32" (+/- 1/64").

2/12/17       #9: Line boring accuracy ...
Dave L

My post would have been shorter had I seen Pat's.

I've spent a lot of time on stops and fences, feedback on my incremental fences/stops would be welcome.

Pivoting Push Stops

3/2/17       #10: Line boring accuracy ...
Kevin Member

Ok, I am finally beginning to understand the use of repeater sticks instead of the indexing pins, but to use the repeater sticks on a tall pantry side (90"h), would you not have to set the first stops at 80 or so inches away? Then add repeater sticks as you move down the line? This would require an eight foot backfence on either side of the drills. What am I missing?

3/2/17       #11: Line boring accuracy ...
Dave L

Yes, long fences on both sides is the easiest (e.g. you never have to add/remove bits to avoid overlapping holes) and most flexible (e.g. doesn't require balanced t/b start holes).

How often do you do 90" tall pantry units? Do they require the full ~300 holes? Could you build them as two or three stacked boxes? If 90" is a must, I'd build the machine into a long workbench (e.g. old image attached).

I don't need long panels with full line drilling very often. I have screw on fence extensions that I can use, but sometimes it's easier to use a jig to drill select holes.

What are "repeater sticks"?


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