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Thoughts on a tunnel arch2/20
I'm going to be doing a tunnel arch in a doorway. Ive done laminated arches before but this one is going to be stile and rail profiled. Sort of a wainscoting look. My question is on how to run the stile profile on a piece that's done been laminated, and glued into the arch? Thanks.
Frame and panel is always best when it is - frame and panel. Whether you do the work as bent laminations or sawn from solid depends upon your preferences, abilities, the radius, and the needs of the job. I'd bend it all, if I could.
Profile your stiles and rails on the shaper with cutters oriented 90 degrees from the usual. What we call "stand up work" since the rails and stiles are run vertically rather than flat on the shaper.
The panel can be formed from thin laminations and then inserted and fastened into rabbets from the back. The cabinet panels in the photos below have moldings that were sawn from solid stock, then profiled as 'stand up work' and mitered together to retain the panels.
The panels were actually barrel built - narrow boards, each with a slight bevel to match the radius, hand planed a bit, and sanded. The raises were done as conventional along the straight sides, and as stand up on the ends. Just make or have cutters made to do either orientation.
How do you orient a shaper cutter through 90 degrees, without having a horizontal spindle? Could you please send a photo of a work piece in the stand up mode?
Assuming that the tunnel is a radius, to profile the sticking on the curvature of a stile/rail, you would need to make a saddle for your shaper that corresponds to the concave curvature of your stile/rail. Align the cutter to the point where the stile/rail would pass through the cutter on the saddle and feed it through.
It would be best to laminate these stiles/rails, so that short grain is not an issue, as it would be if you were to bandsaw from thicker stock.
The stile/rail that is curved should be continuous when assembled/installed, i.e., the end of the curvature should abut the end of another curvature, so that the arc is continuous, and not have a straight rail/stile between the curvatures.
This is so that if a casing is a part of the project, the exposed offset of the casing will be a radius, rather than have flat sections in between. In a flat stile/rail of 3" in a 48" arc, the variation from the curvature would be about 3/64", which might look odd.
The bolection molding example that David shows in the photo would need only the groove or rabbet for the panel cut into the stile/rail, as the bolection molding would cover the edge of the stile/rail.
I hope I understood the question, and I hope this helps.
Thanks for the responses. David you do very nice work, I don't think I have the tooling to do it the way you do though.
I'm sure you know but on the off chance you don't Decore makes curved doors.
My photos didn't quite convey what I think the OP is looking for. To do this - running 90 degrees from the 'usual' means having tooling made, or making your own. Not really a big deal. Curves can be run 'stand up' as I mentioned, or in a cradle in a lay down manner.
However, one must be careful with inside curves in a cradle for a tight radius, since the larger diameter cutters may re-mold the profile on exit. You'll know it if you see it. We like the lathe for tighter radii. It is great for making the tighter curves and then matching up to straights.
The tall cabinet has a slight outside curve on the face of the cornice, and two +/- 90 degree tight curves turned on the lathe, then straight returns on the sides.
The bonnet has an inside curve and two outside curves, all run flat on the shaper as one piece. We have the same knives made at 90 degrees so they can run a mold around something like a vertical cylinder also. Note the two minor curves level out as they turn the corner. Not doing this results in a 'developed' mold that can get very complex.
Now, when you have both - a vertical and horizontal curve - what we call a compound curve, then the party begins.....