|Home » Forums » Cabinetmaking » Message||Login|
You are not logged in. Consider these WOODWEB Member advantages:
Durability of melamine drawerboxes with blind dado joints?2/14
Using eCabinets and on the advice of my cutter (we have the CNC jobbed out) am thinking of using melamine drawerboxes for budget-minded clients.
Pic attached here. Material for sides, front, and back is 5/8 melamine two sides on PB. Bottom is 1/4 melamine.
Some glue into the mortises, and 2" air-driven nails for the joints.
We live in a ten year old tract built house, one of about 5,000 in this development, and the builder-grade d'boxes in all the houses are done with a simple dado, and staples, with sides being 1/2" melamine. No failures in our house.
We use 5/8" melamine drawers all the time. We also use 5/8 for the bottom. 1/4" isn't enuff for pot and pan drawers. No fancy joints required or biscuits. 5/8" butt joint with Roo Glue and 18 ga brads. The Roo glue is amazing. If it fails it's because of abuse. Not normal use.
I have seen that done with Chinese plywood joined with a senclamp, worked very well. Don't know about the melamine version.
Try building a box out of 5/8" pb melamine. sides and bottom. Shoot it together with 1 1/2" 15 gauge nails. No glue. Fasten the bottom to the sides. No groove. The slides will cover the exposed edges.
Drop it on the ground. The 15 gauge have glue on them. They pull harder because of the head.
We always use 1/2" bottoms in all of our drawers. The 5/8" will be cheaper in the end because you are only buying one material and the waste factor will be lower. You can shoot the whole thing together with one gun.
We normally do expensive drawers. We also occasionally build cost effective for things like average closets and storage rooms.
We do drawers exactly like this but using 1/2 melamine. White TB glue in the mortise and 18ga brads every 3 inches or so for tall drawers, two brads for the 4" high standard that gets fit in literally thousands of cabinets here. Then we flip the drawer over and while pressing the bottom tight to the top of the dado, run a hot glue gun along the inside perimeter. I was surprised at how rugged these drawers are. I can literally stand on them. While this method is probably not the best for larger drawers, it works well and is very fast. I've even made drawers for pots and pans this way in ECabS by just making the drawer bottom out of 1/2 melamine.
We build all our own drawer boxes with undermount slides. sometimes they are prefinished ply or 5/8 white melamine. We cut front and back shallower by 1/2" for undermount clearance + thickness of bottom material, either 5/8 for melamine or 1/2 for plywood. bottom is cut same width and pocketholed on sides. We have a Detel pneumatic pocket hole machine that takes seconds to do the bottom. We also pocket hole the front and back to the sides and shoot through the bottom into the fronts and backs. This way there is no visible staples or brads. the bottom is pocketholed to the sides. this way the complete bottom is recessed 1/2 from the sides and no special notching is required.