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Spoil Board

8/26/15       
Bill

I got some Ultralight MDF for spoilboard's and we have not had good luck with it. I don't remember what we had the batch before that but it was certainly better.

I searched spoil board on this site and the results were old and not specific.

What product are you guys using for a spoil board? I am in SE michigan and getting a large enough sheet of MDF from vendors stock is difficult.

Thanks in advance for your help.

8/26/15       #2: Spoil Board ...
Snaglpuss

Been using 5x10 sheets of ultralight for years with no problem.
Before that we used the cheapest particle board we could get but you had to skim a little off both faces with the flycutter.
What is your gripe with the ultralite?
I like the fact that it is smoother esp. when just resurfaced.

8/26/15       #3: Spoil Board ...
Bill

I think we had Ultralight the first time. We skim off both sides in the beginning no matter the board. Our main gripe is that it does not hold parts as well. Warps more and needs to be resurfaced more.

What brand of MDF are you using?

8/26/15       #4: Spoil Board ...
kirk

We use Plum Creek mdf and we seal the edges with spray contact cement or we run it through our edgebander. Make sure you are running your surfacing tool pretty fast so the tool doesn't heat up the surface of the board and "seal" it. Having the surface of the spoilboard a little fuzzy instead of super smooth goes a long way to keep parts from moving.

8/26/15       #5: Spoil Board ...
Bill

Kirk that is regular MDF?

We paint the edge with latex paint.

8/26/15       #6: Spoil Board ...
jerry Member

I use ultra lite mdf but at work they just use regular mdf with good results

8/27/15       #7: Spoil Board ...
kirk

Yes Bill, it's just regular mdf. We have also sealed the edge with latex paint and that works just as well. Edgebanding or spray glue is just a little faster, that's all.
We have found that that we lose too much vacuum suction on anything that's more porous than mdf. The plum creek seems to have the right amount of density to suit us well. I see you are in s.e. Michigan. So are we and we get our plum creek 5 x 12's from All America Plywood. Hope this helps.

8/27/15       #8: Spoil Board ...
Mike

3/4" x 5' x 12' Shop grade MDF only surface one face before use, but we screw it down with nylon machine screws. Never have had issues to do anything else.

With an older machine years ago that only had a 25hp pump, we used LDF starting at 1.5" thick, but after it got thin, the vacuum pressure would decrease and we would replace. I always thought LDF was too porous.

9/1/15       #9: Spoil Board ...
Ryan

Plum creek MDF 5×10

9/6/15       #10: Spoil Board ...
Larry

We run regular MDF, coat edges, skin cut both sides before use. Run a 4" spoil board cutter pretty fast. 40 hp vacuum. Works fine.

9/8/15       #11: Spoil Board ...
Bill

How big a table Larry?

9/8/15       #12: Spoil Board ...
Larry

5 X 10

9/15/15       #13: Spoil Board ...
scott

3/8 or 1/4 regular MDF, never machine it with a fly cutter before cutting. I got the info off this website and it was awesome advice. When it has to many grooves it sometimes gets fly cut and laminate pressed on it for some cabinet backs. I am pretty sure your supplier can get you whatever size you need?

10/10/15       #14: Spoil Board ...
Bob

I think LDF vs regular mdf has more to do with your pump.

We used to have a high volume low vacuum pump that LDF worked better on. 200 cfm 7" of mercury. Did not have super high vac but it nevers dropped.
Changed to Becker same hp but 25" with much less cfm and LDF was useless. As soon as you cut it dropped to nothing.
MDF worked great, I believe it is because of more resistance in the kerf leaks.

High cfm pump - ldf
Lower cmf - mdf

That has been my experience anyway.
Screw down with nylon screws if you are under 40 hp.


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