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Live edge tip

1/21/19       
Anthony Member

Hi all hope your having a great day

I have a wood slab that i need to flatten i have a flat table cnc router
And a spoilblard reserface bit
Any tipe stuff to watch for

Thank u all

1/22/19       #2: Live edge tip ...
Tom Gardiner

If you set-up a pocket toolpath, use a raster routine. Experiment with a shallow depth cut to see what angle for the toolpath produces the least tearout. I used shims under the high corners to keep the slab stable. If it is heavy enough no holding is required. I set my DOC to .06" and toolpath depth to below the lowest point on the slab then stopped the router when I was satisfied with the surface. Surface bits need a shallow ramp or have it start cut depth outside of the slab.

1/22/19       #3: Live edge tip ...
BH Davis  Member

I've done this a few times. The first time I found that my regular 4" diameter insert fly cutter was too large a tool for the job and would stall the spindle.

The 2nd time I did it I used a 2" cutter and it worked better but was still easy to stall the 10 hp spindle.

The reason this is a problem is that when fly cutting a spoil board you are taking off a relatively consistent few hundredths of an inch. With slabs the surface varies and you can unexpectedly be taking off 1/8" to a 1/4"......which is too much on a large tool even with a 10 hp spindle.

My suggestion is to use a max. 2" dia. cutter with an approx. 50% overlap. Also try to find your high spots more thoroughly than I did in my projects and set your initial tool height accordingly.

BH Davis

1/22/19       #4: Live edge tip ...
Mark B Member

When we do large odd shaped slab flattening my routine is to stand above the slab as high as I can get (step ladder if needed) and I take a photo from directly over the slab with a tape measure laying on the slab. I then import the photo into software and scale the photo to the tape measure. I then quickly vector around the shape of the slab and pocket from there.

We run a 5Z insert fly cutter that is just under 4" in diameter and I typically fire up the spindle and manually find the high spots on the slab with the pendant or keyboard jog. If its way off I may manually hog down some of the high spots until Im relatively close to hitting the whole surface and wont be cutting a bunch of air.

Then just setup a pocket tool path with no profile pass, raster, offsetting the vectors outwards by about 2/3 the cutter diameter. Cut depth/feed/speed will vary based on material.

Very little issue with insert tooling and tearout but if it is an issue we will just run a super light final pass. Large cutter running at 9K and a light/slow final pass and we come off pretty much at 120 grit.

I agree with BH. Big cutter from the start and you find a high spot and you'll stall the spindle and either send a servo off line or shove the part. I find though if I just chop the stepover a bit (we usually run 65% on spoil board) and drop the feed Im ok. Having the pendant is nice because I can set it to "feed" and using the jog wheel and my ear if the cutter is moving into a heavy cut I can dial back the feed on the fly. When out the other side I just bring it back up. If in air, dial it up to 200% until its back in the work.

We typically do the same with wedges as needed and I usually just box the slab in with scraps vacuumed down for the first side and vac down the second side or use scraps again if we cant hold it (holes/checks/whatever).

Watch for flying knots and loose chunks.

1/22/19       #5: Live edge tip ...
Dropout Member

When we do this we tend to start high - making a pass or two in air is less expensive than damaging material or tool.

This kind of work for us is just based on time unless we quote it stupid high.

1/23/19       #6: Live edge tip ...
Anthony Member

Thank u all for this great tips this is the picture of my bit its a 10 cm bit


View higher quality, full size image (3120 X 4160)


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