|Home » Forums » Professional Finishing » Message||Login|
You are not logged in. Consider these WOODWEB Member advantages:
Post Cat over Linseed Oil7/14
I have a customer that wants a post cat lacquer sprayed over a linseed oil finish.
Is there a compatibility issue or a certain amount of dry time for the oil before spraying?
Thanks in advance,
out of curiosity.......did he mention why he wants that schedule ? purely aesthetics maybe ?
Aesthetics, will bring the natural color out.
I already know and have communicated that the cherry will darken over time.
not sure if you found your answer , but word on the web is that it will work as long as the oil is cured.....as in days .
I wouldnt hesitate to do it on a small job....but Id think twice before doing a kitchen .
I might do a test board for squirts and giggles . I bet it does look nice .
Most of your stains out there, at least in years past, had a lot of linseed oil in it. They just need time to cure before spraying the CV over them.
And yes, I've done this myself on things like curly maple. I've also sprayed CV over a multiple-coat true Tung oil finish on curly maple, and so far it's the prettiest piece of curly maple I've ever done. The curly maple was part of the lid of a very large mitered corner box, made from bubinga. The maple was about 15" X30", and I applied 8 coats of Tung oil, once a day, rubbing it out thoroughly with some 800 grit sandpaper on every coat. I let it cure for a couple weeks (since I could, and wasn't in a hurry) and topcoated it with three coats of MLC Krystal, satin sheen.
I still have that box, and it still looks absolutley fabulous. It's 6 years old at this point.
Now, a couple quick things regarding Linseed oil.
1) If you use it, make sure you use boiled linseed, since it will actually cure. Raw linseed will take far too long to cure.
2) Linseed oil will cause fires (I've seen it with my own eyes, and a local shop was nearly destroyed because of Linseed oil). Dunk your used rags in a bucket of water and discard. I personally cringe when I hear the term "linseed oil" in a production environment, for this reason.
3) If this job is anything other than a couple nick-knacks, then take your wood specie stock and rub it down with some linseed oil, let it cure, and then take that to your tint specialist and ask them to replicate that slight color shift with their stain. It will basically be a clear stain base with a tiny touch of amber dye in it of some sort. In fact, this can probably be done to make the grain "pop" even more than linseed.
4) Offer this stain option to the customer, but if they absolutely insist on linseed oil, charge them a stiff, but fair, premium on it. I would personally double my price quote if they insisted on it. Just far too much risk and aggravation. The reality here is that customers are often sold this superstitious idea that the "old timers" knew wood finishing better than we do, and that the oil finishes of the "old timers" are superior to modern finishes...... and I find that to be a load of bull. I'm always kind to the customers about it, but they only need (usually) a minor education in why the old timers used oil, and why it's not necessarilty going to be the best option.
5) If you must do this, let the linseed oil cure at a warm temp (over 70) for at least 24 hours, perhaps more.
6) Seal it first with vinyl sealer, catalyzed according to your manufacturer's recommendations. Topcoat with two or three CV topcoats.
Your advise is much appreciated.