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Real TSP before re coating a front door8/21
I got a job where my plan is to use real TSP (bought from Sherwin Willams to clean the front door and transom above. Then...
I'm a bit concerned about which top coat to use on the exterior. I can only think of using a spar varnish. Now. Im not a fan of really any Minwax products at all, but I'm really not sure what else I can use. Spraying milesi poly isnt an option because the homeowner would flip a lid if i even suggested removing her front door and boarding up her front door for the night.
Do you guys see anything wrong with using real TSP to clean the exterior and what top coat thats brushable would u recommend?
I saw the minwax product is now made in a waterbase, but I just dont think water based products have come along far enough to "try" it on the front door of a home worth about 3 million.
TSP is for walls and enamel house paints.
From the photo, the door should be stripped first....total re-finish IMHO....your call
Simple green and a sponge. Maroon(320grit) scotchbrite. Denatured alcohol and rags.
TSP is great stuff for taking the gloss off house paint. Could be aggressive on the door and not neccessary.
Waterborne products have are capable of your needs. However, Minwax doesn't make it.
All Minwax products are garbage. Floor poly, stains, regular poly, water poly. Their "spar" varnish is really bad. There is a reason why real marine spar varnish is expensive.
Buy some Epihanes or Interlux marine varnish or don't touch that entrance way.
First off what is currently on there and what shape is the current finish in? Has it failed or is it just thirsty? It looks like it doesn't get too much sun if any and may just need a little TLC. I agree that the TSP could be too much. As mentioned simple green sounds good to me with a stiff brush (something like a car wheel cleaning brush) but not to strong and then a good hose down and then let it dry real well. Because it's so well protected I don't think you need to go with a high end marine type finish. I've done protected doors for clients with Zars oil based fast drying exterior poly that look great years later. Thinned a little it brushes well (sprays great also). It doesn't have the resin content of a good marine spar but is light years better than minwax spar. After cleaning do a small test area for adhesion issues. If your set on going high end I've used Pettit marines Flagship varnish with great results. You won't find a better spar. It only comes in gloss so you'll have to go with Interlux satin or flat for a softer look.
I should've said you'll need to top the gloss Flagship varnish with the Interlux satin/flat
In defense of Helmsman spar varnish; I've used minwax helmsman spar varnish for years (40) and though it may not be rated the best in independent tests (google spar varnish ratings) it holds its own in these tests with the most expensive and is usually rated a best buy. I just refinished a set of 6 doors that l originally finished with helmsman 5 years ago. These doors have a direct south exposure and no overhang, a quick clean and sand is all it took to get them ready for another two coats...that is good durability in my book. I will say l did apply a coat of clear epoxy sealer on the original application, the surest way to extend the life of a spar varnish job l know of.
Nick using epoxy under varnish is a fool's errand. Epoxy is damaged by UV to the point that it loses its physical properties. Epoxy melts at 200 degrees.
You have been lucky with the Minwax. I have seen several jobs done by other people with the Minwax Helmsman which failed within 1 year. It simply does not have the same amount of UV reducers in it.
Like I wrote before there is a reason why marine varnish is expensive.