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I'm trying to replicate this look, given to me by the customer. It is an old post, wire brushed, and then wiped with drywall compound. I've tried using a white glaze, but it isn't building up as much as the compound. I'm using barnboard, and the wire brushing is possible, but I went with white glaze to stay within the products that I use. Top coat will be cv. Any suggestions on a thicker bodied glaze? Any chance joint compound will work under cv?
Primer thinned to your liking?
Use mlc amazing glaze, or chemcraft new powder break away glaze.
Seal your piece, spray it on, wipe it off in the areas you don't want it, top coat over it, you're done.
Heres what I did, wipe on glaze. It just sort of washes out with the topcoat. I will try spray glaze.
I say give Jouhnathan Mahnken's idea a try. That's what I was going to suggest.
Powder glaze. Sherwin Williams version is the best ive used.
I think white break away glaze would be the best choice. I use Mohawk.
your also going to need to wirebrush that wood to get the grains to open up wider to accept that glaze.
If it is a local job i would contact a local sandblaster, much more consistent, less time consuming
Glaze is not the answer. You'd have a hard time removing it,
Try the joint compound on a test! We've used exterior spackle under pre-cat a number of times (sealer first) with no problems.
Tyler.. im sorry you are mistaken. Sandblasting is very inconsistent, time consuming, and doesnt give you the same results as wire brushing. Its very typical to see a repeating pattern of small circles left by the pattern of the sand blasting equipment.
I do about 4-5000 sheets a year thru my wire brush as well as miles of hardwood. And we use sherwin williams powder glaze which its absolutely effortless to apply and remove. I have posted pics of the results in passed threads in this forum.
To each their own.
Ive had more success using sandblasting as opposed to wire brushing, but you may have a larger/better set up than i did.
Is the wire-brushed grain supposed to be filled white? If the joint compound works, why not use that for your fill-glaze?
Sherwin-Williams has products for you to mix for a fill-glaze. The glaze is Sher-Wood S66 glaze, product number CC-F49 (available in a Van Dyke brown, or a white, or a neutral) to which you can add their Sher-Wood SB wood stains or Sher-Wood SB colorants. Then, to this colored glaze you can add Sher-Wood natural filler, product number D70T1 to make your fill-glaze.
In addition to or instead of the fill-glaze, you can take ML Campbell's AC Sealer, tint it white, spray one or two passes and sand back to the flats of the wood. First, catalyze the product 10%. It has an 8 hour pot life.