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stripping and refinishing to natural2/7
Hey guys. Appreciate your thoughts in advance.
I have a client who would like to refinish a pine tabletop. Rustic, breadboard ends. Solid wood, with rough uneven joints as in picture.
They would like to strip the finish and go with natural.. In this case, natural pine. I have limited experience in refinishing, however I would think that with the porous nature of pine the red finish would be difficult to remove -- save sanding down to bare wood. Any ideas on stripping the finish off if possible?
My advice would be to refer them to a professional refinisher. I've tackled a dozen or so refinishing projects over the years and I've usually regretted it for different reasons - not happy with the end results, issues with fisheyes, took 2-3 times the effort I'd budgeted, etc.
If you insist, I'd at least go with a professional furniture stripper who has a dip tank and the good (bad) chemicals. Then be prepared to spend hours scraping the remaining color out of the grooves and joints. And in the end, some pines look good with a natural finish, some don't. Good luck!
They won't know about the color until the stripper goes on.It's a very even color tone, so there is definitely some kind of toner used at some stage.
Honestly there's more effort in dealing with that particular case than it's worth.... I'd build a new table before I even attempted to get all the color out of that table..... If you have the right shop settings that table could be reproduced in a days time...
I've done enough refinishing to have your same mindset Pat. However, this is a good designer I do a lot of work for so I try to keep them happy.
Shane, the table has sentiment attached to it.
I'll be cutting the table width down some, and the base will be replaced with metal, so its really just the 3/4" top I'll be dealing with. I've convinced her to go with a brown stain! Perhaps I strip it back as best as I can and spray a brown NGR, followed by a brown stain? Do you think the dye will mostly kill the red? I'd also like to seal with Shellac.
A bit of green tint will push the red towards brown. You have the whole underside of the top to play with. Most of my work is for designers, so I hear you on that.
Some Green NGR will help neutralize the red..... I use Mohawk dyes to knock down reds.... My typical mix to tone red down is 1/2 oz- 1 oz. Mohawk green NGR to 28 oz of acetone.... weak enough to make some good wet passes to make sure it layers evenly... I understand about not re-making if it has sentimental value.... anything can be done with a price...